Wheel off, rear up on axle stands (bit of a no brainer this bit) - 

Break drum/rear discs off.
As I have disc breaks rear no photo of regular drum brakes.
Caliper off (2 bolts). 

For drum breaks undo the four center bolts to remove drum (bit of persuasion with a BFH can be applied) - the same bolts hold the converting plate for the rear brake disc as seen in photo.


Undo the four smaller bolts holding the drum backing plate in place (again, no pics in-situe but there circled in red in the following pic)

Pop the converting plate for rear disc brake or the brake drum back on the axle stub and apply a bit of persuasion with a BFH to gently tap the whole half shaft out (if drum brakes then put the drum on the wrong way round and gently tap it in an outwards direction to break the seal. Even better, use a slide hammer)-

You can see the four small bolts still in the backing plate. I you have drum brakes then the small, square backing plate will be a big moosive round thing with all the shoes and piston in it

Here be the oil seal - prize it out with a screw driver, spend a few minutes mucking about with the cool spring on the inside face (possibly try and make some jewelry for a loved one) and then throw it at the neighbors dog - 

Removing the Bearings...


Get the small grinder out and carefully cut off the locking collar with out gouging chunks from the half shaft and have a good hack at the bearing itself. Finish removal process with a chisel and the BFH -

Fitting new Bearings...

Rear wheel bearing Suzuki part number and bearing marking (not sure if the Suzuki numbers are universal but anyway) -


This is the new Suzuki bearing with a built in spacer that is good for both 1300 and 1000 axles according to 'the man in the know'.
Also, I use the original zook bearings because they are cheaper over here (16 quid a pop) and seem to last me longer than after market ones.
Locking collar

Oil seal 

If using bearings that require a 4mm spacer then don't forget to fit it

Slide new bearing onto shaft (making sure its the correct way around) and press on the collar until everything is tight and the bearing has no play in it. If no press is available you can gently tap the collar and bearing down using the BFH and a length of metal pipe the same diameter as the collar -

Carefully insert new oil seal into axle housing (metal face out - gentle taps may be required with a soft hammer, plastic handle of a screw driver, bit of wood etc. etc.) until it sits flush.
Insert half shaft into the diff and tap into axle housing until bearing sits flush with axle tube and do everything back up again.

Wash, rinse and repeat for other side.

Forgot to add that for drum brakes need to disconnect the break fluid line from the piston behind the backing plate (rounding off the nipple in the process) and bleed the brakes again afterward.

Oh, and the hand brake cable for Sammis............... 


This article was written by Simon Owen, and was originaly posted on difflock and can be found HERE


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