SJ bogs when clutch is released
SJ bogs when clutch is released
Evening all,
When i release the clutch on my sj with it out of gear and it is just warming up it seems to bog down the engine and want to stall. The sj also seems to feels stiff when moving from a stand still and requires very high rpm otherwise it will stall, i was just wondering whether any of you have ever had this problem. It is almost as if the brakes are on, but the aren't.
Any thoughts appreciated.
When i release the clutch on my sj with it out of gear and it is just warming up it seems to bog down the engine and want to stall. The sj also seems to feels stiff when moving from a stand still and requires very high rpm otherwise it will stall, i was just wondering whether any of you have ever had this problem. It is almost as if the brakes are on, but the aren't.
Any thoughts appreciated.
- dan_2k_uk
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Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
When did you last check your gearbox oil?
Also what carb are you running? Has this started since it's been cold?
It could be that it's just poorly tuned for cold weather/choke but it seems unlikely that the normal resistance of just the input shaft turning would cause enough drag to try and stall the engine which is why I asked about the gearbox oil.
Also what carb are you running? Has this started since it's been cold?
It could be that it's just poorly tuned for cold weather/choke but it seems unlikely that the normal resistance of just the input shaft turning would cause enough drag to try and stall the engine which is why I asked about the gearbox oil.
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Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
Thanks Dan. How do you check the g box oil? Its running the standard 410 carb and I only bought it two weeks ago so I'm not to sure if it is just the cold weather. I thought that maybe it has a too viscous oil in the g box for the cold weather which is causing resistance. I think the carb does need adjusting slightly as it does idle a little high.
Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
I would personally drain and replace the gearbox oil for good measure. There could even be water in there that is freezing in this cold weather.
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Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
Yeah, as Scottie said, best just replace the oil.
I did both my gearbox and transfer case fluids in the summer, to check fluid level, first park on level ground and after removing the gearbox filler plug (see below!) dip your pinky in, the oil should be level with the fill hole. Check the colour while you're at it.
Here's what worked for me
You need a hot air blower (hair dryer won't work) for 5-10 minutes a couple of inches away. Nothing combustible near there, only the metal tunnel! and if not too chewed up, a 15/16" 6 point socket OR if mashed, a good medium pair of vice grips and plenty of WD-40 soaked in, that should do it
No1 tip: Always attempt to undo all fill plugs first prior to the fill ones
No 2 tip: All plugs are available from your local Suzuki dealer (about £4-6 each), wait a couple of days at the most, I did as mine came from Germany this week.
No 3 tip: All our early bolts on the T/C and the gearbox are '24' mm, but the tip here is use a 13/16" 6 point, important 6 point socket if you have one. This will be more snug at a nominal 23.8mm.
No 4 tip: I used, WD-40 (overnight soak) tapping with hammer, tighten then loosen trick, blow torch ( use a plumbers asbestos free mat to protect speedo cable etc) and a 1600w hot air blower.
The best was the blower held steady for a good 5-6 minutes, then, a small sharp cold chisel and hammer (see pic below!).
No 5 tip: The T/C and gearbox being aluminium expand/contract at different rate to the steel bolts, always use a copper anti-seize paste when tightening bolts back up, especially the fill plugs as they get hotter in use.
No 6 tip: If you can't get any fill plug off, you can fill through a diff nut approx the same height as the fill plug, take out the transfer lever, or take out the gearbox lever and do a approx fill that way.
No 7 tip: The fill plugs have mini magnets to collect shavings, the fill do not but can be used as same M18mm thread etc.
No 8 tip: On the T/C and gearbox, always use new soft aluminium washers on all bolts whether new or old, I got my 18mm ID x 24mm OD ones here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/261999892558
See my mate from FLA, USA doing this version here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3F9_AfbI7w
Good Luck
I did both my gearbox and transfer case fluids in the summer, to check fluid level, first park on level ground and after removing the gearbox filler plug (see below!) dip your pinky in, the oil should be level with the fill hole. Check the colour while you're at it.
Here's what worked for me
You need a hot air blower (hair dryer won't work) for 5-10 minutes a couple of inches away. Nothing combustible near there, only the metal tunnel! and if not too chewed up, a 15/16" 6 point socket OR if mashed, a good medium pair of vice grips and plenty of WD-40 soaked in, that should do it
No1 tip: Always attempt to undo all fill plugs first prior to the fill ones
No 2 tip: All plugs are available from your local Suzuki dealer (about £4-6 each), wait a couple of days at the most, I did as mine came from Germany this week.
No 3 tip: All our early bolts on the T/C and the gearbox are '24' mm, but the tip here is use a 13/16" 6 point, important 6 point socket if you have one. This will be more snug at a nominal 23.8mm.
No 4 tip: I used, WD-40 (overnight soak) tapping with hammer, tighten then loosen trick, blow torch ( use a plumbers asbestos free mat to protect speedo cable etc) and a 1600w hot air blower.
The best was the blower held steady for a good 5-6 minutes, then, a small sharp cold chisel and hammer (see pic below!).
No 5 tip: The T/C and gearbox being aluminium expand/contract at different rate to the steel bolts, always use a copper anti-seize paste when tightening bolts back up, especially the fill plugs as they get hotter in use.
No 6 tip: If you can't get any fill plug off, you can fill through a diff nut approx the same height as the fill plug, take out the transfer lever, or take out the gearbox lever and do a approx fill that way.
No 7 tip: The fill plugs have mini magnets to collect shavings, the fill do not but can be used as same M18mm thread etc.
No 8 tip: On the T/C and gearbox, always use new soft aluminium washers on all bolts whether new or old, I got my 18mm ID x 24mm OD ones here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/261999892558
See my mate from FLA, USA doing this version here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3F9_AfbI7w
Good Luck
Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
damn I've never had that much trouble getting one of those style drain or filler plugs out. Just a 24mm and a breaker bar normally does the trick if they are tight.
The 10mm square female drain and filler plugs however can be a right pain if they have been done up too tight.
The 10mm square female drain and filler plugs however can be a right pain if they have been done up too tight.
Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
The Jimny ones are terrible! I ended up getting a 17mm Wheel Nut welded on the each of them!!
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Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
Thanks everyone for all the help. I'll check the levels tomorrow and change them for good measure. Thanks again
Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
filler/drain plugs are only hideous if they have previously been over tightened, unfortunately that's often the case.
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Re: SJ bogs when clutch is released
Removed the sump plug from my Merc with a hammer and cold steel chisel.
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