Suzuki Club UK

You have seen a couple of pics of my DD. Thought I would post a couple more pics of the DD. This is more conservative with mostly store bought goodies.

DD Stats:

SPUA, AC, 1.3, 31's, 10" rims, Toy 2TC Carb, 4" Hell Creek springs, Cal Mini Shackle reverse, 1.25" spacers, 4.9 Transfer case gears, Zor snatch, Sky half OTT Steering and Mostly Original paint.

Had the hood and the back door repainted and replaced the rear door hinges.


Will be glad to answer any questions on the DD.









2TC Toy Carb

Lessons Learned

When I got the DD it was a mess with a bad lift. I decided to buy the suspension lift components that were at Calmini and Hell Creek.


I decided to leave it spring under because I was afraid to weld on the thin axle tubes and it was suppose to handle better in this position. With the lift add I need to remove the sway bar which seems to be the thing to do from the reading I did.

My experience with the parts that were added.

Calmini SR lift: I will be removing it in the near future. I do not care the way the front tends to nose dive under braking. The axle now pushes to the fire wall and this will cause the tire to bump the firewall if wheeled hard. You will also have to shim the caster angle back in.

When I did my research the SR was suppose to be the better way to go. Not in my opinion.

Hell Creek Lift Springs: These were recommended for spring under axle use. When I installed them they were not centered in the wheel arches. This is why I added the Calmini SR. This added 2” more lift and also pushed the axle forward an 1”. This gave me enough room for tire clearance and the tires were now centered in the arch.

The suspensions is fine in the city. There is a big problem on the interstate at speed when it is windy. I do not use the interstate any more just the 2nd dairy roads for this reason.

I’m sure there are others that have learned what they will do the next time around. This is why I’m going to take the SR off. Put the sway bar back on and use the regular shackles in the front position again. I will still leave it spring under axle but I will re drill the locating hole for the leaf springs to push the axle forward an 1”.

I hope that will give me a more all around vehicle.

Thanks for the reply.

I was well aware I wouldn't achieve a brilliant finish with sanding pads in the grinder. However my whole build has been carried out outside and I needed to strip and paint the body in a day due to the unpredictable weather here.

It had a thick layer of hammerite already on it as well so it was the only way to get it done.

When I said rough finish I didn't really mean from the grade of the disc but more from the size of it which produced low spots.

Like you said spreading the paper over a large area is obviously the best.

Thanks for the link.

Dan

No worries Dan I’m glad that I was able to help a bit.

I have looked at some of the build threads and quite a few are doing the work outside. I know how tough that is because my shop is full and when my DD is unhappy. I have to work outside and watch the weather as well.

I tried to cover a lot of different info when I was replying to hope I was able to give you some thing that may help. I’m glad you explained more of what you were doing. Thanks

Dan, if you have anything that you would like me to try and give some info on. Please feel free to ask and I will try and help.

Terry

There were a few questions on the bike carbs. Here is the info I struggled over for 2 years of research to build mine. This is by no means a step by step and there is some critical info left out as well. You will not know this until you get into the mod.


Note:
Mine is a completely different design because I didn't like what they had produced.

Here are a couple of links

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic, ... 76efe0145e

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=696262


Here are a couple examples of chopped down stock intakes modified for the bike carbs. This would be a cheaper and more affordable way to go. I would advise that you research everything on the subject first. The instruments needed to tune and the filters for them are not cheap.

These are the 16v motor example and the stock intake is used because of the unusual intake runner design.

TanZuk wrote:
I’m sure there are others that have learned what they will do the next time around. This is why I’m going to take the SR off. Put the sway bar back on and use the regular shackles in the front position again. I will still leave it spring under axle but I will re drill the locating hole for the leaf springs to push the axle forward an 1”.

I hope that will give me a more all around vehicle.

Very well put Terry, I know I've learnt a lot of lessons throughout my build, however it means that the next build I do I will know how to get it right first time and for less money! I think loosing the shackle reverse will help stability as well buy dropping it back down 2". I used to run a very similar set up to what you are planning, 2" lift springs SPUA with 31x11.50s on 10" wheels and it used to handle like a dream (for an SJ) on road around the country lanes, It was just a bit too firm off road with limited flex so I decided to go with the YJs to improve those two areas.

Really enjoying the extra details you have added to this build about the paintwork and keeping everything looking fresh

Thanks Scott,

Just trying to keep it interesting. Spent some time looking at a few of the other builds to see what is being worked on. I had some simaliar work that was done and decided to share the pics and some info to try and help.

TanZuk wrote:You have seen a couple of pics of my DD. Thought I would post a couple more pics of the DD. This is more conservative with mostly store bought goodies.

DD Stats:

SPUA, AC, 1.3, 31's, 10" rims, Toy 2TC Carb, 4" Hell Creek springs, Cal Mini Shackle reverse, 1.25" spacers, 4.9 Transfer case gears, Zor snatch, Sky half OTT Steering and Mostly Original paint.

Had the hood and the back door repainted and replaced the rear door hinges.


Will be glad to answer any questions on the DD.









2TC Toy Carb

This sort of build is more in my league, I have the calmini 3.5" shackle reversal kit fitted on my SJ at the moment, I bought the entire kit which came with the +1.5" springs and the drop pitman arm,

What do you think to the mounting at the front of the chassis? I have mine fitted but I was thinking of having some sleeves made up to sit inside the chassis tubes and offer more support the the reversal towers,

Can you tell me about the 2TC Toy Carb? What cars were they originally off and how do they compare to a weber or SU? I'm currently running the weber carb kit, which is pretty good but has the regular weber problems

Hi Luke,

I hope that you will like the SR. I have had mine on for 3 years now. I’m taking it off really don’t like the way it handles and does push the tires into the firewall if you are aggressive with your offroading,


1st question on SR front sleeves:

I did not care for the way it bolted up in the front either. Looked at putting sleeves in also. Didn’t think there was enough room to get a good set of sleeves in there properly. I did put some Grade 8 bolts, nyloc nuts and washers. My bumper was also held on with the same bolts and it is ¼” thick. I thought after looking at the bottom bolt up bracket and the bent pipe going from side to side that would take up the stress issues.

I have had mine like that for 3 years with no problem I would put a ¼” plate on the inside this would give more support for the bolts not pulling through just like my bumper did.



2nd Question 2TC carb info:

1978-79 COROLLA 3KC
1166 CC ENGINE 4 CYL
2 BBL AISAN
Carb PN TOY-250

There was a noticeable improvement over the stock carb. The carb worked with out any trouble rite out of the box. There is none of the Weber issues on offroading and I get 24MPG.

We don’t use the SU over here they are too expensive and too hard to find. My buddy has the Weber and his is stock and my DD on 31’s keeps up with it and seems to get a bit better gas mileage as well.

Here are a few links on how to do the Mod.:

Caution: it is not as straight forward as it seems. I did give this info to someone on the Zu a few months ago and he loves it.

http://www.acksfaq.com/toycarbinstall.htm


http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?P=30a1 ... ic=25544.0

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?P=30a1 ... ic=85345.0

Terry

Ok, Since there doesn't seem to be any more questions and there is just a lot of lookers.

I will continue with the build progress.