Suzuki SJ413 build, Scotland.

[chan]

diff oil is quite thick, probably brown in colour as its old. it should smell quite funny. theres no way of telling you how it smells as its hard to explain

make sure the piston is completely closed.

get something like a hammer and use the end of the rubber handle to push towards the piston to push it in.
hope that makes sense

cheers

[ScottieJ]

there should be a self adjuster on the bit between the top of the shoes just under the cylinder, sorry this is the only pic i could find and it doesnt show it very well
on this there is a small mechanism that you can move (might need a small bit of persuasion with a screwdriver/hammer) and it will allow the shoes to sit in further, test fit the drum and give it a spin and then adjust it out until you can only just get the drum back on, then once its all fitted give it a few pumps of the peddle and it will fully adjust itself. if the adjusters dont give you enough space to get the shoes in still then you will need to push the pistons on the cylinders in a bit more, make sure the drum is on the other side when you do this though as it will force the pistons out of that side if it isn't.

[gsommo]

The oil that came out of the axle was like water and nothing like oil at all, so I think it should be fine and upon spinning the axle by hand it al sounds good in the hood.

Regarding the drum brakes, I have tried so many times to get them on using tools to try and persuade it on there but it just seems like the pistons will not puch in far enough for me to get the drum over, What I was thinking I could do, is where the shoes attach at the bottom with a spring to keep them together I would cut this down a little bit then redrill a hole for the spring to go through this would then make the diametre of the shoe set up smaller and so the drum would fit over. This ma end up making the shoe set up a little off perfectly round but atleast it would mean that I would be able to get the drum on. Does this seem like a good or very stupid idea? At this juncture I just dont know what to do.

[ScottieJ]

Bad idea IMO it could end up being fatal brakes are not the sort of thing you should mess with like that.

Have you tried the self adjusters yet? there should be more than enough adjustment in them to get the drum on

[ferris]

Try using a g-clamp on the piston, so it pushes both sides in at the same time. I had the same problem with my drum brake, and im sure thats how i sorted it.

[gsommo]

yeh i thought of a clamping type thign so I will try that.

My car is an 87 sj413 and when looking at what brakes to buy, there are 2 options, 1 says for 87 onwards and one says up to 87. I thought it was pretty weird, however the sizes of the brakes are the same 220mm by 40mm, so i was thinking that I would have an issue with the other brakes too. What do you think anyone??

Cheers

[gsommo]

Went and got my new brakes today, tried to fit other ones but had been given the wrong ones, now have my nice new ones and they look like they will definetely fit so all is well, hopefully get them on this week.

I also had the carb off again, I used vaseline on the gaskets (just a bit) and hopefully that will make the seal better as I was sure that there was fuel leaking from the bottom of the gasket before, this should solve the problem.

My next issue is regarding the SU carb dash pot, I have 3 in 1 oil which I am using to fill it up. Now am I just filling up the cylinder?? and not the whole top section under the plastic top. When I do this and put the dip stick thing back in it 1 pushes some of it out and when I move the piston up and downa few times it seems that the oil is leaking out of the top of the cylinder and subsequently leaking out of the bottom of the dash pot. Anyone got any ideas about it? I was thinking that there may no be a very good seal on the dip stick however was also thinking that if the seal was to great that there would then be no where for the oil to move and thus you would not get a damping effect as there would be a pure vacuum and so the piston in the dashpot would not move at all.

Sorry for all the questions, hope one of you can help.

[gsommo]

Any ideas lads???

[gsommo]

Things with the car are looking really good now, had a really good day yesterday, managed to get all my brakes sorted out and got the engine running properly and put the refurbed dash back into it, wiring it all up correctly even getting the heaters etc to work properly (I think, I was not sure whether or not I might of had some of the heater mechanism cables the wrong way round).

My only problem right now is that when I have reversed the car and then go to move forward, there is a bit of a clunk coming from the back just as you move forward then its fine. I got my mate to do this while I was looking underneath and it seems that it is coming from the rear diff/rear prop shaft, looks like there is movement between the joint between the 2 here. I am not sure whether or not this is major (anyone got any ideas?), but i am hoping that it is just making a little noise when it is engaging then its all good.

Anyway here are 2 links to youtube of my car on its first proper run (its not very exciting, but was good to get the thing idling properly and running smoothly).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrFQc1R4cTs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-g-eNAE1uQ&NR=1

Enjoy

[ROBBIE]

check for play on the propshaft uj