Clutch

[TomBod08]

So long story short my clutch has gone. I'm getting no gears at all, how difficult are they to replace, is it quite simple or a real ball ache of a job? Also has anyone got a spare clutch lying around and if so how much?

[twiss]

dead easy man!!! no need to jack the car up.... can be done with simple hand tools!
there are some write ups around I will find you one

[twiss]

engine bay

- remove battery negative lead (12mm)
- remove small starter wire (push fit)
- remove battery positive lead (from the starter) (12 or 13mm)
- remove 2 bolts holding starter on.... remove starter (12mm)
- undo the top bolts holding the gearbox onto the engine (big bolts!) (15 or 17mm)

inside car

- remove gearstick gaiter (10 or 12mm bolts, use long socket)
- remove gearstick assembly (MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL FIRST!!!)
- remove transfer gaiter (screwdriver)
- put t-box in neutral and spin the middle prop round undoing the bolts (12 or 13mm)
(this can be done from underneath as well)
- remove the propshaft

under car

- undo end of clutch cable from gearbox (14mm spanner and mull grips usually the best)
(remember vaguely how done up it was)
- undo bolts that hold the rear gearbox mount on (4 bolts on one end, 2 on the other) (12mm)
- undo bottom bolts that hold the gearbox onto the engine (12 or 13mm)
- gearbox should now slide back enough for you to get to the clutch cover (may require some encouragement from a rubber mallet)
- remove clutch cover (12mm bolts)
- remove clutch plate
(be careful as it will try to fall directly on your face)
- the thrust bearing you should just be able to wiggle it off

now the annoying part... getting the clutch lined up. the easiest way is to use a clutch alignment too but I normally get it as lined up as possible by touch and eye, do the cover bolts up (not too tight) then test fit the gearbox back onto it.
If the clutch is in the wrong place the gearbox will not go back on all the way... might take a few goes to make it fit without an alignment tool

I think thats most of it... if I've missed anything (probably!) im sure someone will add it on

[Darrell]

Treat yourself to a new clutch. I will come as a kit with new pressure plate, friction plate and bearing.
There not very dear. Also it may be worth having a new pilot bearing handy in case that's worn/seized, again there only cheap.
Worst thing when I did mine was when I lowered the gearbox onto my chest then I couldn't get out.


Have fun.

[twiss]

Yeahhhh new clutches are like £50 for a cheapy one?

[ScottieJ]

Personally I don't like to buy cheap clutches, they never seem to last very long in off-roaders.

Easy job to do a clutch on these though I can do it in under an hour. Often best to get the front end up on axle stands/ramps so you have a bit more room underneath to get the geaebox out.

[twiss]

Ahhh yeah I should have added that! Its much easier if you have a 2"+ lift! (or stands/ramps as scottie says)

I've had a 2nd hand unknown condition cheap clutch in mine for 6 months now and it's doing me proud even with the 16v and my heavy footed driving style

I'm not bothered how quickly they go as they are so easy to change!!!
(Even though on mine I have to disconnect the rad and tilt the engine forwards 45 degrees to take the gearbox out!!!)

[Jordi]

Dead easy to do 1-2hrs depending on your knowledge.

I usually go for LUK clutches.

[ScottieJ]

X2 on LUK clutches, it's what I always buy.

[Ladaman]

Give these guys a bell, just down the road from you.

http://www.calderclutch.co.uk/

I've never used them personally, because I haven't need to, but I have heard they are reasonable and helpful.