Because it's a 410 you need to modify the engine mounts, get a 413 gear box, flywheel, clutch, skinny starter.
From the vit you need the engine, coil, alternator, dizzy etc.... IF IT'S A.CARB'D VITARA. If it's the SPI vit you need all the wiring and ECU or can convert it to a carb.
http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... itara+1600
New Member so saying Hi
- Jordi
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- Location: Darlington, Co. Durham
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1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
Re: New Member so saying Hi
right thanks for the advice, will put up pic's wants I start work on her, just need to get it through the MOT and on the road then il start with the Mod's.
Tyres to have on my SJ
Hello, Just got a quick question, my SJ came with some Sahara Insa Turbo's on 31" but they hd gone flat and the walls are now badly cracked and not safe to use which is a shame as they've hardly been used, so I was just wondering what peoples throught where on a good set of all terane tyres that are not to expensive.
Many Thanks
Simon
Many Thanks
Simon
- Jordi
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- Location: Darlington, Co. Durham
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http://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/advanced_sear ... 5=116&6=65
Insa turbo ranger tread pattern is a good choice. I have a set of31" colway a/ts with that tread as my road tyres.
Or the Malatesta kobra is the same as the Insa Sahara
Insa turbo ranger tread pattern is a good choice. I have a set of31" colway a/ts with that tread as my road tyres.
Or the Malatesta kobra is the same as the Insa Sahara
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
Re: New Member so saying Hi
Sahars or simler are good
1994 sj 413 sierra
cheker plate door cards
cd players
asin free wheeling hubs
99% rust free
alloys
bukets
some leaks here and there
cheker plate door cards
cd players
asin free wheeling hubs
99% rust free
alloys
bukets
some leaks here and there
Re: New Member so saying Hi
ok thank you for the advice il have a look around and see what I find.
- littlesammy
- Engaged 4wd low
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- Location: In a little village outside Milton Keynes
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dan_2k_uk wrote:What the hell are you planning on doing in your run about that standard axles won't stand up to?
Standard axles are good for up to 31s if driven will a little respect. You can even get away with 33s if you don't go hard on it.
aha , that opens up a kettle of fish for me then., ive got 33s on mine and it always seemed like i had to floor it to get it to move, it started making graunching sound the other day on the eve of me taking my nephews to devils pit , i still went and had a great day but the noise it made on the way home was attrocious , its getting looked into next week when my mates back so i can use his ramp! either way im getting smaller tyres !!
hello darby , enjoy the mud.!
87 Samurai with added spice !
Re: New Member so saying Hi
I've been running 33s for years with no issues, if it's geared right you should have no issues driving it.
Chances are it's just a failed wheel bearing, will be a common problem if you run big tyres on wheels with lots of offset/wheel bearings.
The tyre height doesn't make much of a difference in my opinion, I've found no difference in bearing life between 31x11.50s and 33x12.50s. It's the offset that kills them.
Just jack the wheel up and give it a wobble/spin you'll soon find the issue.
Chances are it's just a failed wheel bearing, will be a common problem if you run big tyres on wheels with lots of offset/wheel bearings.
The tyre height doesn't make much of a difference in my opinion, I've found no difference in bearing life between 31x11.50s and 33x12.50s. It's the offset that kills them.
Just jack the wheel up and give it a wobble/spin you'll soon find the issue.