Fitting YJ springs to a Samurai

[Ladaman]

Right then,

GP7186. Drilling an extra hole further forward can be still part of the plan, as I have left enough material available for at least some of the 2.1/2" needed. If there isn't quite enough, all it would do is push the axle back a little, so that's no biggy. I will check it out when I have my axle bolted on and be able to put wheels back on.

Anton, Yeah I suppose they are a form of D Flex, and that's where the horizontal shackle you can see is from, the D flex shackle I've just removed. I never had an issue with the D flex, they always seemed pretty good.
I looked up some designs of quarter elliptical set ups. Considered it for about, maybe a millisecond, then binned the idea. If I was to ever make three or four link set ups, I'd coil it, very clever set up though.

Rhinoman, I'm sure the shackle will move back when the axle is bolted on and I can sit it on it's wheels. If I do stick with the two link shackle set up I will be adding some bits (not sure what yet) to stop them going the wrong way.

Thanks for the pointers though guys, and your ideas. I do sometimes get tunnel vision on these things when playing in the garage, so all points and comments appreciated.

[Ladaman]

Well I've got some prices for the shockers, and they might be shockers

The shocks are $75 each plus shipping. This is buying 4 or 24.

For one set sent to the UK with Fed Ex 2-5 business days, the total would be $415 ($300 + Shipping at $115) plus import duty which I think is 4.5% (I had a look on a web duty calculator), then plus VAT so I reckon about £320 for four.

For six sets it would be about £290 for four (cheaper shipping). 24 x $75 + $445 shipping = $2245

I will ask at work if we can find a way of getting them to the UK cheaper, but we don't send much to the UK, it's usually the other way, UK to USA.

This is the site I used. http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORsb.asp?Ser ... &SubChar=Q part number 33-185576, the bottom, longest one.

So about TWICE the price of Rough County

Anyone still interested?

[trotter]

Hmmm that's fooking pricey ain't it! Are they worth it?

[Anton]

Hmmm that's fooking pricey ain't it! Are they worth it?

Are they twice as effective? I know it's not that simple, but I don't think I'd spend on a set, if I'm honest.

[Ladaman]

Hmmm that's fooking pricey ain't it! Are they worth it?

My thoughts too. I was hoping someone who has experience of them would know. I've seen them mentioned a lot on the Yank sites, but when they only cost $75 each there it's no big deal.

Anyone going to the US for Christmas? LOL

[trotter]

I've got a mate in us who would post them over if that would get around the import duty?

[ScottieJ]

I'm happy to pay that for a decent set of shocks, as said I was going to buy some eventually anyway.
There is a reason they cost more, it's because they are actually valved properly and you WILL notice the ride difference, dunk runs them on his coiled Sj and that's one hell of a comfy ride!

Ladaman one thing to check when you get the Sj back on it's wheels under the full weight is the rear driveline angles, get an angle finder on both the diff and Tcase flanges.

They need to be as close to partake as possible, preferably within 1-2* sometimes it's best to have the diff pinion actually tilting slightly down from the Tcase those 1-2* so that it allows for the small amount of axle wrap there will alway be with leafs when under load.

Nice work on the conversion, I would be a little concerned about how long the missing link is though as that is probably going to allow quite a bit of lateral movement, might be worth shortening it and moving the shackle mount back a bit? Shackle length looks good though, my rears are 140mm long and she flexes up good

[suzukisteve]

morning lads. some unfortunate news im afraid. I have tried and tried but I cant seem to lay my hands on these shocks.

sorry for the let down guys

[Ladaman]

No worries Steve, thanks for looking. Nothing ventured....

Scottie, are we going for it then? We could have them here for Christmas.
Anyone else?

The missing link bit is just an idea at the minute. The top part is just half of my now redundant D flex, and they fitted.
When I get some plates made to allow me to BOLT the axle back on, and do away with the U bolts, I will make my decision.
I will probably move the rear spring mount back, but I might just make some shorter links.

Is that a typo in your post, are you saying the T case to axle flange should be about parallel? Maybe the axle slightly down?

[ScottieJ]

I'll have to wait until after Christmas as I've spent too much

And yes it should say parallel, yes slightly down 1-2* won't hurt as under load the nose if the diff will lift slightly if you don't have an anti wrap bar. If you do have an anti wrap bar get them as close to parallel as possible to minimise chances of vibes and premature UJ wear.