Dan_2k_uk's super shed thread!
- dan_2k_uk
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Dan_2k_uk's super shed thread!
Just started on my custom shed build.
Not going to be the most exciting build on here but hopefully people will have some input that will guide me towards a better finished project.
First things first its going in the corner next to my parking space so need to dig and form a odd dimension pentagon concrete base.
Hopefully get it totally finished and kitted out inside for under 1k.
Thinking of welding a steel frame and cage inside after to keep it super secure but no idea how much that would cost.
Dan
Not going to be the most exciting build on here but hopefully people will have some input that will guide me towards a better finished project.
First things first its going in the corner next to my parking space so need to dig and form a odd dimension pentagon concrete base.
Hopefully get it totally finished and kitted out inside for under 1k.
Thinking of welding a steel frame and cage inside after to keep it super secure but no idea how much that would cost.
Dan
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
- Jordi
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Like it
Can't beat a good shed. I like the idea of the steel for security, i was thinking about an anti ram bar for my garage.
How big we talking 12x10, 16x12? Is it homebrew? Off the shelf? Custom made?
With regards to the base. Good foundations mean a lot and ensure exceptional drainage. If you can afford it a high quality treated timber for the lower foot. Shed rot from the ground up. If the side are pre fabbed i recommend a good paint prior to bolting it to gether to get all the areas that will be covered once constructed. If you nailing all the boards together yourself, again, paint it first.
When i refitted my down stairs floor while me and my dad were doing the man work i gave my wife and mam a brush and wood treatment to do each board & joist several times before fitting. REMEMBER each time you cut, drill, chisel the wood it will expose bare wood. TREAT IT!
Love the muck away truck too
Can't beat a good shed. I like the idea of the steel for security, i was thinking about an anti ram bar for my garage.
How big we talking 12x10, 16x12? Is it homebrew? Off the shelf? Custom made?
With regards to the base. Good foundations mean a lot and ensure exceptional drainage. If you can afford it a high quality treated timber for the lower foot. Shed rot from the ground up. If the side are pre fabbed i recommend a good paint prior to bolting it to gether to get all the areas that will be covered once constructed. If you nailing all the boards together yourself, again, paint it first.
When i refitted my down stairs floor while me and my dad were doing the man work i gave my wife and mam a brush and wood treatment to do each board & joist several times before fitting. REMEMBER each time you cut, drill, chisel the wood it will expose bare wood. TREAT IT!
Love the muck away truck too
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- dan_2k_uk
- I spend far too much time on here
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- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 5:19 pm
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Full custom homebrew. Its not even going to be a proper pentagon shape. I will knock a drawing up later to show that better.
The floor plan will be roughly equivelant to 8m sq.
Is full concrete floor a good idea? That was my original plan or would raised wood job be better?
The floor plan will be roughly equivelant to 8m sq.
Is full concrete floor a good idea? That was my original plan or would raised wood job be better?
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
- Jordi
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Full concrete so long as the foundations are laid ok and the drainage is correct. Piss poor drainage and trapped water will crack the floor in the first freeze.
A decent dolomite base, if you can get a hold of one of those damper/compactor things to bed it all down. Don't want it to sag and crack when you drop something on it.
Ideally i would go with a breeze block dwarf wall round the base to so the timber doesn't go all the way to the floor. I know its all cost, especially concrete.
A decent dolomite base, if you can get a hold of one of those damper/compactor things to bed it all down. Don't want it to sag and crack when you drop something on it.
Ideally i would go with a breeze block dwarf wall round the base to so the timber doesn't go all the way to the floor. I know its all cost, especially concrete.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- dan_2k_uk
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- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 5:19 pm
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
I want to do it right. The thing that confuses me most it how to lay a damp proof membrane under it to stop damp coming up through the concrete and not have it on show above ground.
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
- Jordi
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Not sure on that one. Don't think my 1904 garage has one.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- turbo-tom
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
We built a glorified shed at the bottom of my garden back in 2010 and its basically built to house standards double skin, internet, lighting, heating, access control etc and it all had to go through planning permission local council buiding regs etc,
due to going through planning permission we had to dig down 1.5 meters blah blah blah
half way through digging around and down etc
Then burn pound notes into the ground and fill the footings up with concrete (ignore the square slab of concrete in the picture that was there the old shed base was
Dampcourse time!
This was built double skin to keep it warmer in the winter etc
build a row of concrete blocks just of set on the centre of the footings have to be concrete blocks as they dont soak the water as much as themolite blocks. Then normal bricks around the outside of them creating the cavity using wall ties etc
Now put rubble/hardcore in the base and if you really want to iron mesh only about 3 inches if that make it all nice and compact and roughly flat Then get your pvc damp sheet and get that nice and snug in the base and tuck the remaining down the cavity or outside for example then lay in in 75mm thick polostryne 8x4 boards (cut down to shape) (not in picture)
then fill up the base with screed up to the top of the damp course concrete blocks and get a long straight peice of wood and scrap it along the top aslong as the first row of bricks are fine you cannot go wrong
Then due to ours double skin we laid another roll of damp proofing around the house brick layer then from there you just build up from normal and back fill the dirt into the footings
Then we landed up something like this we went all into town with lights in the sofits and wooden ceiling to not loose height etc
sorry to bore you Dan!
And you know what mum says "its warmer in my workshop then it is the house"
But it did cost bit more then 1k to build but we wanted something built properly and that would last
Sorry for the thread hijack aswell
due to going through planning permission we had to dig down 1.5 meters blah blah blah
half way through digging around and down etc
Then burn pound notes into the ground and fill the footings up with concrete (ignore the square slab of concrete in the picture that was there the old shed base was
Dampcourse time!
This was built double skin to keep it warmer in the winter etc
build a row of concrete blocks just of set on the centre of the footings have to be concrete blocks as they dont soak the water as much as themolite blocks. Then normal bricks around the outside of them creating the cavity using wall ties etc
Now put rubble/hardcore in the base and if you really want to iron mesh only about 3 inches if that make it all nice and compact and roughly flat Then get your pvc damp sheet and get that nice and snug in the base and tuck the remaining down the cavity or outside for example then lay in in 75mm thick polostryne 8x4 boards (cut down to shape) (not in picture)
then fill up the base with screed up to the top of the damp course concrete blocks and get a long straight peice of wood and scrap it along the top aslong as the first row of bricks are fine you cannot go wrong
Then due to ours double skin we laid another roll of damp proofing around the house brick layer then from there you just build up from normal and back fill the dirt into the footings
Then we landed up something like this we went all into town with lights in the sofits and wooden ceiling to not loose height etc
sorry to bore you Dan!
And you know what mum says "its warmer in my workshop then it is the house"
But it did cost bit more then 1k to build but we wanted something built properly and that would last
Sorry for the thread hijack aswell
Tom
Ford Fiesta ST
Ford Fiesta ST
- dan_2k_uk
- I spend far too much time on here
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Good usefull pics Tom.
Mine wont be that good. I like wood anyway as you can easily add and change bits.
Was thinking of casting the base with a membrane laid inside the shuttering and then after the shuttering is removed lay a few courses or bricks to tuck the damp proof membrane up on top of. Strength wise though I think just pressure treated timber bolted straight to the base will be stronger.
Might build the base a good ammount above ground level with a gravel border round it to remove any drainage and damp concerns.
Mine wont be that good. I like wood anyway as you can easily add and change bits.
Was thinking of casting the base with a membrane laid inside the shuttering and then after the shuttering is removed lay a few courses or bricks to tuck the damp proof membrane up on top of. Strength wise though I think just pressure treated timber bolted straight to the base will be stronger.
Might build the base a good ammount above ground level with a gravel border round it to remove any drainage and damp concerns.
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Yer Do something like my house timber framed. Got some bits left over like tin roofing etc and some wood if you want any might be abit far though.
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- turbo-tom
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Re: Dan_2k_uk's Shed Build
Yeah man sounds good to me that will work! , oh yeah i forgot to say when we did our guttering and drainage we had to build a one big soak away or two small ones one of them goes into the flower bed and the other goes into a water barrel thing, and we had pea shingle around the back of it and grass around the front and the drainge is finedan_2k_uk wrote:Good usefull pics Tom.
Mine wont be that good. I like wood anyway as you can easily add and change bits.
Was thinking of casting the base with a membrane laid inside the shuttering and then after the shuttering is removed lay a few courses or bricks to tuck the damp proof membrane up on top of. Strength wise though I think just pressure treated timber bolted straight to the base will be stronger.
Might build the base a good ammount above ground level with a gravel border round it to remove any drainage and damp concerns.
Tom
Ford Fiesta ST
Ford Fiesta ST