SPOA, rear disk conversion and Lockright

[4x4edd]

Not sure if it will be helpful or any thing but Im currently doing a SPOA and rear disc conversion on my sammy, and thought Id take some picks along the way to post up on here.

Here goes.
The axle that came with the truck had already got a SPOA kit on but as you can see below, was not welded on very well and collapsed the whole axle case, not nice at all

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After fetching a axle from sam16v (cheers mate) I set upon stripping it

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The back plate for the drums was annoying, as I'd liked to of kept them but ended up cutting them to get off

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Finally stripped and SPOA plates, i got off eBay, placed on top ready for welding

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After welding into place, at a slight angle to bring the diff up slightly, I decided to make it a little stronger

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While I wait for my brake lines to come I turned to the diff and started on that

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And put my lockright in

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Thats all I've got at the moment but once the rest of the parts come, I'll get the brakes measured up, paint it all and put back together, then its time to see if this lockright is any good.

Updates to follow

Edd

[Ladaman]

Nice job.

I'm looking forward to your pic's and thoughts on the Lockright and it's installation, as I have one "lurking" in my garage waiting to be fitted.

I will fit it when I do my disc conversion also.

[ScottieJ]

After wending into place, at a slight angle to bring the diff up slightly, I decided to make it a little stronger :

Nooooo you shouldn't tilt the diff up at all unless running a double cardon/CV prop shaft, the prop UJs will now be out of phase and not working together, that's probably worse for them than running at a steeper angle.

Apart from that nice work!

[4x4edd]

Cheers

Well I did tell my uncle who was helping (or hindering) at the time, but once he had it in his head to put the angle there, that was it.
It's only 1mm difference, so not going to make the greatest of difference.

Its all stopped at the moment tho as I figure out the best and neatest way of routing the brake pipes.

Whats the norm for the hose? from the calliper and under the springs or over them?

Edd

[4x4edd]

Well progress has been very slow. but I'm getting there.

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I am abit worried to wether the right lock is set correctly tho. as it seems to be locked all the time.

Just want to get it back together now so I can start on my other truck.

[Anton]

[4x4edd]

31's on there way so I'll be sitting nice and high soon.

Im like a kid waiting for christmas.......... all excited about my new wheels and tyres

[Anton]

I am abit worried to wether the right lock is set correctly tho. as it seems to be locked all the time.

Lockrights don't differentiate - they lock the axles under power, until you turn, at which point the let the outside wheel "over-run" the inner one. That is, when set correctly.

So the inner wheel is being fully powered, while the outer one freewheels like a bicycle (hence the noise). So it may be set correctly. Sitting on a bench, if you clamp one side so it can't move, you *should* be able to turn the other side and hear a ratcheting sound.

http://youtu.be/PHycqZ_x2xk?t=1m45s

Play with the tolerances until that's what you see/hear.

[ScottieJ]

Coming along nicely, just noticed that you only tilted the perches 1mm doubt that'll really matter, thought you might've tilted them quite a lot like most people do.

As Anton said the lock rite is more of an unlocked than a locker, on the bench it will just act like its permenently locked because it kind've is

[Darrell]

Looking good .
What did you use as a bearing retainer, I see you cut the square out, but then cut it in half