the no dosh LJ revamp

[ScottieJ]

So which mounts are currently fitted? im a bit confused as you said they were done up so tight the rubbers were flat and you can't do that with stock rubber mounts? Bolt through can trasnfer loads of noise and cause vbes and all sorts as the tbox can't move in ways that it should, personally I don't like them and would only ever run them with a cradle, even then i would rather new genuine stock mounts over them.

What exactly was said about crush collars? I need to know as if he decided to tighten the diff pinion flanges for some stupid reason then it's going to cause pinion bearing damage.

As above also check the propshaft yoke alignment. He would have removed the prop, or at least half of it to remove the tbox to helicoil it.

[donkeychomp]

It has the standard stock rubber mounts (3) that were on it before. Yes he over tightened them by miles but loosening them did nothing. The crush collar thing I assume he was talking about Land Rovers and maybe the tbox mounts on them have those type of collars? I'm going to check the middle prop. If no change remove the rear and drive it. If no change...stumped. I'll phone him tomorrow and see exactly what he did and to bitch at him for NOT filling the gearbox oil (though why he touched it is a mystery as I never asked him to). Thanks everyone for the advice on this.

[ScottieJ]

I'm confused though as stock mounts don't squash the rubbers when tightened?


The only place suzukis have crush collars (same as landrovers) is between the diff pinion bearings hence why we need to know what he was saying about them and if he tightened the pinion nut for some unknown reason.

The only thing to check on the middle prop is the UJs, it cannot be fitted wrong, well unless the bolts aren't done up

[donkeychomp]

Ah I see. They are not on my car. The ones I have a Llama ones and are basically just rubber tubes with a hole in them and smaller rubber ones that go on top and below, like washers, then a metal washer too. It's those that were flattened. I'll get a pic tomorrow. However I think I now know what might be amiss. The noise and vibrations get worse the faster I go and when I back off the throttle in 4th or 5th the sound is incredible. But...he did put in a new engine mount (other side is fairly new) and I reckon this has shifted the prop alignment slightly. And now I can't even find neutral with the tbox. I wanted to get underneath and spin the middle prop by hand to see if it's catching on something. Wondering if I lower the tbox by a few mm this might help things? Maybe cut off a little bit from the rubber mounts...

[donkeychomp]

And looking at those mounts they seem a lot shorter than the ones I have fitted. Do you know how tall they are Scottie?

[ScottieJ]

I would get rid of the bolt through style mounts and fit some proper standard mounts, bolt through are horrible and the worst thing you can fit in my opinion. bolt through mounts do transfer a lot of noise and vibrations to the chassis.

[donkeychomp]

Ordering some!

[donkeychomp]

Got underneath to try and lower the tbox and realised it wouldn't change a thing, just make the middle prop run at an acute angle. But I finally got the carb to tick over properly (it was idling at 2000 rpm!). Pumped up the tyes (down 3 psi all round) and wtf. Drives a lot better. Still a little graunching noises but nothing like before. No idea why this has happened!

[donkeychomp]

And now this has happened....

Might explain why it was driving like a bastard and getting worse as the mount sheared off bit by bit. I shudder to think what would have happened if I was doing 70 and it came apart.

Local welder will have it done by tomorrow morning. Still haven't got my new tbox mounts either!

[donkeychomp]

All done and a very good job too.

Tbox mounts are here and they are the proper ones! And not as tall as mine...

Get them on tomorrow then it's a wheel bearing and rear brake cylinder to do.