Suzuki Club UK

I've had my SJ413 for over 13 years and am still running the original carb. It drives/runs fine but ticks over rough-lumpy and the exhaust smells of fuel. To me it sounds like it's running too rich, but how on earth are you supposed to adjust it. I've never seen the proper suzuki tool other than a picture.
Is this screw correct or has somebody chewed it up trying to adjust it.
Anybody found a way around this "orrible thing.....

And no I'm not going to change it for an SU because I'm far to much of a lazy barsteward to bother!!

Cheers - Darrell.

a pair of long nose mullgrips? i dont blame you im to lazy to convert to su! my carb seams to do be fine with out all the stuff i chuck at it!!

The only help I could offer is....

Do you have dremel? Before I consigned my carb to the bin I took it off, dremelled the collar off with a slitting disk and put a saw cut in the blank so I could use my screwdriver on it. Although it sounded like a good idea, I struggled to get a driver on it, luckily I had some of those hex drive bits which I used with a tiny adjustable spanner, I still couldnt get it to run right so I fitted a weber - it required no manifold modification, used the standard airbox in its proper position and my original throttle cable fit.

That's an idea. I've got one at work, I could just cut a slot into the collar and the screw head.
If the screws not chewed up, how does the proper tool grip
Been idling rich for years but never been a problem for the MOT.
The only reason I'm thinking about it again is because Monday is it's next one.

Thanks

There isn't a proper tool its an anti-tamper set-up, its fixed at the factory and you're not supposed to touch it. Of course after all this time it probably does need adjusting, I think that's the first one I've seen that hasn't already been modified.

I would agree it looks more like an anti-tamper device, as there is sod all for the tool to grip onto.
However the workshop manual shows a tool .

Don't know what the hell this is ??????????



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cant you jam a screwdriver between the domed bit and the ring to get it to turn,or hacksaw a slot in and use a flat head screw driver?

Screw in clockwise for richer, anti clock wise for leaner. (you probably have a diagram so you know which way to turn it!)