Suzuki Club UK

Hi, Happy new year to all, any help would be apprieciated,
I have recently changed like for like my 413 engine.
The new engine did not come with a carb, so i took the carb with inlet manifold off the old engine, and fitted to the new engine

unfortunately, when removing the old engine with the hoist, we forgot to disconnect the thottle cable, and visibly bent the quarter circular throttle cable guide, which i believe fits onto the butterfly, other rods, etc.

i have straightened the piece out with a pair of pliers, and timed the new engine by removing no1 plug and positioning the dizzy correctly, etc

New engine starts, grudgingly, and throws out loads of black smoke, so i shut it off. it wont idle, and obviously after a half a minute of running, the plugs are black, i am guessing its very over rich?

allied to the above, i have noticed since the engine swap that the actuators which look to be either vacuum or solenoid driven facing the front of the car, and act as an auto choke pushing on the other front facing side of the carbs second venturi, are pushing out a long way further than they did before the engine swap, again i amguessing making the mixture over rich.

Has anybody else experienced this, or have a solution?

The piston pushing the second venturi is the choke mechanism, they often fail and cause over rich runing, there used to be a manual choke conversion available for the std carb although I don't know where from!

If its running that rich I'd also recommend checking the oil to see if the excess fuel has made it past the piston rings and contaminated the oil. If so change the oil and filter asap.

I'd place bets on the carb being fudged... I swear you can take a fully working one off, put it back on again and hey presto the choke is broken!!!

I know its a bit of a cop out, but whenever a standard carb breaks I'd recommend putting an SU, a Weber, or Nikki carb on it!

They're so much faster (weber), more fuel efficient (su/nikki), more reliable (su/nikki/weber) than the standard one!

Thanks guys, i have been out there all day and have made the following discoveries.

On removal of the engine i managed to bend not only the quarter circular throttle cable guide to end stop, but also on the same shaft, i bent the end stop.
This meant that the armature on the throttle spindle had forced its way past the bell crank lever for closing the choke, the return spring then did its job, and trapped the choke closed, thus the black smoke.
By holding the choke open with a screwdriver, it started and ran quite well, but due to the end stop being bent, would not idle slow enough, and oil was leaking onto the exhaust.

I decided to then take the carb off to adjust the end stop and re align the bell cranks and levers to straight and in the correct positions, which seemed to work quite well.
I then replaced the carb onto the inlet manifold using some blue hylomar, and reseated.
Again the engine started, but would not idle too well and i then had to address the issue of the smoke, which i think was a badly sealing rocker cover, which i swapped for the cover from the donor/original engine as this has a better rubber gasket, as opposed to the cork cracked gasket on the replaced engine. this seems to have slowed the oil drop down, but i had to remove the dizzy to reseat the rocker cover, which i don't quite understand as it came off alright, and i think i have again knocked the timing out as it won't start, without backfiring through the carb.

Then it got dark, the battery was flat, and we had a big down pour. I took this as my que to give up.

SO jobs to do -
Retiming from scratch removing no1 plug and dizzy cap, to get somewhere near correct as a starting point
ensure rocker cover is sealing
timing gun/light to ensure correct timing
road test.

Then i can worry about everything else.

Cheers,

Tim

Thanks Twiss,
I will give it one more try, probably next saturday, and then give up.
I have used both SU and Weber carbs in the past on minis and fast fords. I have found a weber conversion 32/36 dgav carb kit from the states for about £220 delivered.
I have looked on this site at the SU conversion, and to be honest, as i am not a fabricator, more man with hammer, i don't fancy getting to fiddly, the weber looks like a bolt on solution?
DO people sell these second hand? is there a good classifieds area to look for such things, other than ebay?
Any advise is most welcome

Regards,

Tim

Sometimes they come up on difflock.com 's classifieds but eBay as your second best bet, I think rockwatt on here modifies manifolds to take SU's when my carb packed in I bought that weber kit, (it was a quick solution as my sj was a daily driver) it was dead easy, fit & forget

You can get SUs and Webers on Ebay. SUs are quite common as they were fitted to loads of cars.

The Webers don't seem to be quite as common, and the Nikkis are very rare most of the time.

You are right in saying the the weber is pretty much bolt on (so is the Nikki), but they are both quite difficult to get ahold of!

For an SU, you can buy a right angle adapter to bolt the SU onto. They aren't as good as a modified manifold, but can work well if you heat the adapter to stop it freezing!

This is my old modded manifold (now needs to be sent to ScottieJ)



This is a nice painted version of the adapter in the DIY section



This is a pic of Henry's one... as you can see you can have a water pipe running around the adapter to keep it nice and warm!

I think this is the correct type of Nikki but I'm not 100% on that, it does have a glass float bowl window that looks like in the pic though!


Click Here for Ebay Listing

The 32/36 dgv needs the adaptor plate (as the mounts are different to the asin) the Su 90degree adaptor can be good but..... some are too tall and you have to cut a hole in your bonnet for the dash pot to sit out of! Imho if your going Su get a modified manifold and then you don't have the other problem with icing (which is common with the 90 degree adaptor)