Suzuki Club UK

Hi Guys.
Hello. I've been cruising this forum occasionally for the last 12 months or so.
Around this time last year I bought an 04 GV 1600 Soft top. body and interior clean, Chasssis had some surface rust so she spent the first few months in my garage being power wire brushed chem treated and then Hammerite.
12 months on she's just failed her first MOT in my care. I wasn't too surprised she failed on brake lines ( and a couple of other bits )
I've worked on my own cars all of my life but always hated hydraulics. Well it's probably time I broke my duck and improved my skills.
Advice please.
Option A, cut out the damaged sections and fit joints.
Option B, Replace from end to end.
I'd probably prefer B. but I need to know ?
Pipe size.
Thread sizes on any fittings I need to replace
A good source of the above parts
And a functional flaring tool that isn't going to blow the budget

So many question from a newbie but a trawl and search of existing posts hasn't helped.
Thanks in anticipation.
Mabo

Hi
Did my soft top GV brakes a few years ago before I sold it
Yep not the best job in the world brake lines on a car.
Don't cut and shut replace they are steel and will corrode. Use 6mm cupro nickel kunifer brake pipe last longer than the car. I think the pipe fittings are 10mm but I seem to remember that something didn't fit right and ended up using the originals from the old pipes. Obviously take good note of how the pipe ends are flared I think they where a double flare I.e turned out to form a bell then dished back over.
Try and get the old pipe out in one, to use as a bending pattern I.e form the new pipe bends copying the old pipes. If you have a pipe bender use it if not bends can be done by hand but not as tight. If you are replacing the pipes mounted on the chassis front to back watch the pipe clips as they will have gone brittle.
EBay or Amazon can get you what you need or a proper old motor factors.
Finally I used a vacuum brake bleeder to draw the fluid through . Hope this info helps

Thanks Ginger boy, that's all good advice.
I've popped her into my garage for now. I've pulled the rad ( which had an intermittent leak ) and dropped it into a repair workshop, once it's back I'll fit it and crack on with the other works.
Yes decided almost certainly it'll be an end to end job, I'll know for sure when I get under her and assess the task. Why not copper ? I imagine that'll be easier to work with. I have another older Ford car, she has copper end to end with no problems. ( although a partially sighted MOT tester did once tell me they were rotten ! )
Other works are a brake dragging, slight wheel bearing play and some rotten disc dust guards. I'm wondering If I could make some from plastic sheet !

Hi I only used cupro Nickle as its seemed a little bit more forgiving when bending by hand on a tight radius, I've found the copper easily fold on me when I did a tight bend. Plus it doesn't go green that quickly but in the end they both do the job. If it is a front brake dragging its probably the slider pins corroded. I had to nearly twice a year take them apart free them off anti seize paste them and put them back together. Strangely on my 5dr GV the brake callipers were different and didn't seize on the pins
Not to sure about plastic disc guards might not be riged enough.
I do regret selling my GV soft top but it got a little long in the tooth the and the electrics started to do some strange things.