Suzuki Club UK

OK, my axle got bent the other day when the Vitara got rolled back under a slight tug from a vehicle it had towed across a car park. We forgot to disconnect the tow rope from the other vehicle , and 4 hours later when he drove off, it pulled my Vitara backwards about 12 foot, where the back wheel struck a low wall and bent the axle..bloody hell ! made of toffee!

Anyone help me identify the "new" donor vehicle from the chassis number and tell me if the axles will be compatible.
Also what the correct part numbers for rear brake cylinders and shoes would be appreciated.

I'll post more info as I get it.

Anyway I acquired a spare axle from a JX Hard top, year unknown with Chassis number :
Santana -Motors S.A. e9*93/81*0010
VSE ET V01 V01 202454

My Chassis number also a JX 1.6 but a soft top. Log book states First registered 4th january 1999.so potentially a 98 vehicle???? I see the drop down list in the e-bay link to check compatibility does not list a 1999 vehicle ..1998 , then next year is 2003?
Santana -Motors S.A. e9*93/81*0010
VSE ET V01 C01 208274.


Anyway, I stripped the brake drums and cylinders off the 'new axle' and ordered new parts
From Jun 1993;Suzuki Vitara 1998 ET, TA [1988-1998] SUV SUV 1.6 1589ccm 80HP 59KW (Petrol)

Cylinders :
DELPHIWBCA002970

and shoes:
MINTSHOEA003119
MINTSHOEA003119

But they are different to the ones on the 'new axle from the donor vehicle with chassis number VSE ET V01 V01 202454 of unknown year.

The donor vehicle prop shaft at the g/box transfer box end has two wider splines 180 degrees apart, with 11 narrow splines on each side .so 22 narrow and two wide splines..I read some where that spline number is an identifier..so I include it here.


Not yet stripped the hubs off my vehicle to see what I have got inside.

Ratio of 'new' rear diff seems to be 4.857:1 I counted input shaft turns to output shaft turns . 68 turns on input gave 14 turns on the output.

What a PIA!

Be wary of those eBay comparability lists, from 2 experiences, they are not 100% reliable.

Good luck

Cheers
My initial post is a bit disjointed..got a call to go to work, so had to cut and run. in work now...my job is very much hurry up..and...OK, now you re here...wait...wait ...wait.

I did try looking up chassis numbers to get a year...but so far the only list I have found state the 10th digit..and that on both numbers is 0...whyihc is not listed. So I am guessing the year may well be the V or the C

I never normally use e-bay for parts..I'd always have gone direct to a supplier locally but this time I thought I'd try the cheaper option and shop online..bad mistake :(

4:88 diff would be from a 4u, 4u2 1998-2001 or possibly a V6 model.

The rear axle casing should be exactly the same so just swap all the parts over from your old axle, including the diff, the axle shafts will be the same in both axles . You should also be able to swap the yoke from the gearbox end of your prop onto the new one.

NeilP wrote:I did try looking up chassis numbers to get a year...but so far the only list I have found state the 10th digit..and that on both numbers is 0...whyihc is not listed. So I am guessing the year may well be the V or the C
(

Those sites usually use the US VIN standard, the international standard has no character for the year. In your VIN V=van/tin top, C=convertible.

OK, thanks

I was hoping to use the donor internals too, as I am not sure how good the internal are on the bent axle.

As a temporary measure we welded some girder to the tow hitch, added chains and a Sealey port power hydraulic body press, straightened the axle..only to find it was twisted too. so had to cut the tie rod and extend that by 22mm with a plug to get it tracking straight !

Found this page:
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Suzuki

from another thread on here, and it does say both vehcilesa re teh same year..1998. so at least I amgetting somewhere. Lets hope my new axle is the same as the old bent one.

OK, so the C and V now makes sense. Thanks

ScottieJ wrote:The rear axle casing should be exactly the same so just swap all the parts over from your old axle, including the diff, the axle shafts will be the same in both axles . You should also be able to swap the yoke from the gearbox end of your prop onto the new one.

did not want to do that in case there was internal damage /bending too.

Job done now.

ratio was the same.

I seem a few threads telling people to dismantle the axle to count the teeth to determine the ration. Totally un necessary. Just lock one wheel, jack up the vehicle and turn and count prop rotations to wheel rotations. You need to mark accurately both the prop shaft and the wheel. Ideally take the wheel and the brake drum off, then you can use the handbrake to stop the other side from turning. The with your marks accurately aligned, turn one or the other (prop shaft or axle.) Keep rotating until BOTH marks are accurately aligned again..not even 5mm out..but exactly aligned.
For my axle it was 39 rotations of the prop shaft gave 16 rotations of the axle. With one side locked, it will give half the correct ration. 39:16 is 2.4375:1 = 4.875:1

When I stripped my old axle off I took the diff out and counted teeth to confirm. 39 teeth on the ring 8 on the pinion..4.875 :1. So I got it exactly correct counting rotations.

NeilP wrote:

ScottieJ wrote:The rear axle casing should be exactly the same so just swap all the parts over from your old axle, including the diff, the axle shafts will be the same in both axles . You should also be able to swap the yoke from the gearbox end of your prop onto the new one.

did not want to do that in case there was internal damage /bending too.

Job done now.

ratio was the same.

I seem a few threads telling people to dismantle the axle to count the teeth to determine the ration. Totally un necessary. Just lock one wheel, jack up the vehicle and turn and count prop rotations to wheel rotations. You need to mark accurately both the prop shaft and the wheel. Ideally take the wheel and the brake drum off, then you can use the handbrake to stop the other side from turning. The with your marks accurately aligned, turn one or the other (prop shaft or axle.) Keep rotating until BOTH marks are accurately aligned again..not even 5mm out..but exactly aligned.
For my axle it was 39 rotations of the prop shaft gave 16 rotations of the axle. With one side locked, it will give half the correct ration. 39:16 is 2.4375:1 = 4.875:1

When I stripped my old axle off I took the diff out and counted teeth to confirm. 39 teeth on the ring 8 on the pinion..4.875 :1. So I got it exactly correct counting rotations.

Clever tip, or 'hack' as they seem to say nowadays