Suzuki Club UK

After doing the maths properly, I realised that the calipers I have are just plain wrong. I can't go putting bigger ones on the back!

I just bit the bullet and bought a pair of Rover 200 rear calipers:





And did this to them:



New seals/boots etc in, everything wire brushed into shineyness, then painted for long lasting not-rustyness. But I can't find my flipping copper slip or silicone grease anywhere, so I can't finish the job!

Ok, today I got the side indicators working. I stripped the electrical tape off the wiring and put it all in some nice heatshrink tubing instead, as I had to de-solder it anyway, to splice in the side repeaters.

Scottie welded up the rest of the floor (what remained to be done was on the outside, and has now been plated and is way stronger than factory) and now I just need to find those stupid freakin' splitpins and fit them, get some (or make some) caliper mounts, wait for the brake line clips to arrive and fit those, get the reverse lights working and fit diff breathers of some kind.

I'd also like to strip and paint the rims, but that's not a major concern. Ditto painting the SJ itself (although I will be sealing up the welding Scottie's done to the footwell floorpan etc).

Spot on

Didn't have much time today, but I refitted the driver's seat, I flushed the rad, and sorted out the carb arm by relocating the return spring. Now, though, it's way (way) too tight. Need a longer spring really. Refilled the SU with machine oil, and some spurted out of the top as it revved up. Is that normal?

Should really work some oil down into the throttle cable, it sticks a bit. That's tomorrow's first job, before WAD'ing (like CAD'ing but with a bit of wood) the rear brake caliper mounts.

Question:

Do SJ413's even have a fog light? Do I need one if it's not fitted as standard? I have a light, I just need to know if I should go to the trouble of getting a switch, running a cable, and getting it working.

Also, does anyone have a set of standard shackles I can relieve them of? My rear shackles are HUGE and need to go back to stock.

Yes you need a fog light for the MOT and there must be a light to show when it is switched on.

its not that hard i had to rewire mine only took like 10 mins all on its seperate circuit all fused etc.

ScottieJ wrote:Yes you need a fog light for the MOT and there must be a light to show when it is switched on.

Had a feeling that was something I was going to have to add to the list.

Well, I've been given one (from a Hilux, I think) so I just have to run the cable (assuming there isn't one there already - time to go a-huntin'!) and fit a switch into the dash - I was thinking of fitting a switch that lights up when there's a complete circuit, so as to avoid having to fit a separate light. That should be sufficient, shouldn't it?

And I'm right in thinking that only a *rear* fog light is needed, am I?

He's only a rear is needed and a light up switch will do

And don't worry if your reversing light doesn't work because that's not part of the MOT.

(well it was when mine passed anyway)

ScottieJ wrote:He's only a rear is needed and a light up switch will do

Cheers. Thought so, but it's better to be safe than sorry, an' all that...

donkeychomp wrote:And don't worry if your reversing light doesn't work because that's not part of the MOT.

(well it was when mine passed anyway)

Really? Well, I'll try to get mine working anyway, if only because I'd like to have working reverse lights!



Gonna make this out of wood tomorrow (WAD - Wood Aided Design), as a proof of concept:



If it doesn't work, I'll tweak the design, make another WAD. Rinse and repeat until it fits properly.

Once it works, I'll make the real thing out of 8/10mm plate. I have an 82mm cobalt holesaw in the post, so I should be able to actually cut the right sized hole into the steel plate. The rest is just 8mm or 9mm holes drilled in the right places, and the plate cutting to size with angry grinder. Should be pretty simple to do.