Suzuki Club UK

got a new waterpump, sump gasket etc, big end bearings and rings arrived today. just need to finish painting the block, but it's been too cold for that. going snowboarding for the first time this weekend, so it will be a few more weeks before the engine is finished, but it's getting there

got some gas, and just did some welding, wasn't too bad actually. I cut out the rear bed supports because they were rusted, and found they had rusted right through the chassis, so I patched the chassis first, and the welded on a new support

just finished painting the block. hopefullt we get round to honing the bores tomorow, and installing the new piston rings and big end bearings. also did this painting, same paint, same prep, turned out completely different.

This is a true nut and bolt job.

The new supports look nice and solid. Welding is a lot tidier than mine.

so on saturday night we rebuilded my engine. had a little surprise. we pulled the big ends out, and the guy helping me remarked how good condition they still were, but I said replace them anyways as i have new ones. when we tightened up the first lot, we found out they were too small, and I needed oversize bearings, so we just cleaned the old ones, and reused them

also found out end play was about 1.5mm, but we also just left that

anyhow, she's mostly back together now, a few things left to do, and I have a lot of questions coming up 1. to set the tapet clearance, how is this done, anyone got a link, or can describe it please?
2. when first starting up an engine after a rebuild, what do I need to do, and what should I watch for?( I think put a little oil on top of the pistons, and handcrank it untill the oil is up to pressure)
3. I got my numbers mixed up when labeling the leads, and as a result we have electrical timing set up to piston 4, when it should have been piston 1. can I just swap lead number (1 and 4),and (2 and 3), on the dizzy, effectively reversing the firing order?
4. I bought new spark plugs, do they just plug in, or do I need to adjust the gap setting, it's 0.9 mm out of the packet
5. who has a built thread with a f10a engine, or sj410, so I can have a look at some pics regarding some of the plumbing up and orientation of engine mounts etc

ill answer the easy ones and let others describe in detail the rest
to get the oil pressure up with out it starting remove the dizzy cap and crank it over.
its worth checking all the plugs are the same gap but generally they are set in the factory.
seting the timing is easy. there is a window (hole) in the gearbox casing that you can see the flywheel and if you turn the engine over by hand you will find the timing marks. search on here for setting the timing. then its a case of removing the dizzy and putting it back in in the correct position. and setting the tappets is easy aswell. turn the engine over by hand and when the cam lobes are pointing skywards put a ring spanner on the nut and a flat blade screwdriver in the slot,crack off the nut while holding the screwdriver still. put the feeler gauge in the gap, wind the screw down til you can just about move the feeler gauge. tighten the nut back up. check the feeler gauge isn't stuck, it should be a bit tight in there. put a drop of oil in them n it makes it easier.
im sure some of the other guys can shed a bit more light on this.

Hopefully that's 4 and 5 covered

That engine looks sweet mate very jealous !nearly there mate

This is all is says in the workshop manual..

3. I got my numbers mixed up when labeling the leads, and as a result we have electrical timing set up to piston 4, when it should have been piston 1. can I just swap lead number (1 and 4),and (2 and 3), on the dizzy, effectively reversing the firing order?

Dammed if I know