Alternator

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Darrell
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Re: Alternator

Post by Darrell » Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:16 pm

This is the original wiring diagram.
Yes it should charge fine with the white/red wire removed.
The black/white wire is the standard exciter supply. This wire also goes to the ignition coil and the carb solenoid.
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2005-GV 1600se, "Hell" What do I know!

dannytrigger
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Re: Alternator

Post by dannytrigger » Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:48 pm

Brill so the plan of action now is to run a fused live direct to the battry (or back of starter). Then run a small feed cable from the + side of ign coil back down to alt.

Would this be correct?

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Darrell
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Re: Alternator

Post by Darrell » Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:12 pm

It would be better to connect the alternator output to the original loom if possible.
I only say this because when the engines running most of the vehicles electrics are run direct from the alternator. If you run the wire straight to the battery then all the vehicles electrics are going through the fuselink.
However this fuselink is designed to take this current and may well be fine.
Also doing this means the alternator output cable is unfused.


I don't mean to be rude but why not wire it up as standard, dash light an all. :poke:
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dannytrigger
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Re: Alternator

Post by dannytrigger » Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:01 pm

Ye ideally i would prefer to do this but i picked sj up as a abandoned project and the previous owner has kindly hacked all the loom up and removed all-sorts!! cabling under the bonnet is now all red! slowly trying to sort this mess out and maybe simplify the loom as much as possible. the ignition has been moved to a remote switch however you still need to turn the key to crank! its bit of a pain to be honest! maybe i need to rip it all out and start again?

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kibris
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Re: Alternator

Post by kibris » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:26 am

dannytrigger wrote:Ye ideally i would prefer to do this but i picked sj up as a abandoned project and the previous owner has kindly hacked all the loom up and removed all-sorts!! cabling under the bonnet is now all red! slowly trying to sort this mess out and maybe simplify the loom as much as possible. the ignition has been moved to a remote switch however you still need to turn the key to crank! its bit of a pain to be honest! maybe i need to rip it all out and start again?
To be honest Danny - thats what I did in the end - my light switch shorted at first so the lights did not work, then the ignition went tits up - i just ripped the lot out and started from scratch new fuse box, all new wiring the lot! - now I know how everything is wired and what does what!

Do away with all the unessential wiring! you'll be suprised at the amount there is! mind you I put most of a 50m roll back in!

I wired the big yellow and white to a key switch via an 30amp inline fuse the switch then fed a new fusebox with 2 live banks one bank for ignition live and the other for Acc live - then i just took all live feeds from there - it has an inbuilt earth bank so fed all the earths back to the fusebox.
Alls fine now.

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