Suzuki Club UK

Oh, okay so it's a 1:18 Losi Crawler, not a 1:10, but with a custom chassis? Are those dual batteries connected in parallel for extra capacity?

Where'd you get the wheels and body from?

Yes it's the 1/18th crawler with a 1/10th shell. You don't need the custom chassis here's a pic of mine just plonked on the chassis as I haven't got the mounts fitted to my chassis for it at the moment.

The wheel base is very close and it works well.
I believe luke split the original battery into saddle packs like I originally did before swapping to a Lipo pack.

Yeah the batteries have a y split link that I made to run them in parallel, really it doesn't need the extra capacity because the original battery lasted for ages any way, the only real reason I went for x2 was because I wanted to bring the CofG down and the only real space was down the sides, to equal it up I bought another pack and mounted them panier style,

The wheels & tyres were from https://store.rc4wd.com/mobile/home.asp?#home a place in California, I used 1.55 sized rims (1.55" across, at 1/10 15.5" rim almost spot on suzuki rim size) the tyres were dirt grabbers as thr tread looked about right and scale and I'd seen them on other builds (at http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/index.php in the 1.55 section)

The body..... I got mine from eBay but the seller doesn't seem to have them any more, the body was a PEO14 Speedway Pal, I think your best bet would be the new tamiya body, it looks more detailed even though its a shame it doesn't have a roof, the body is this one

Click Here for Ebay Listing

Thanks guys. The thing is I want to try and make a miniature replica of my SJ (bull-bar, decals and all), so the ladder style chassis and different wheels are what I'd like to do. Those wheels are a very good match for SJ standard ones aren't they.

I've done a bit of looking and that Speedway Pal body is discontinued whilst the Tamiya one is a chopped cab. With the Tamiya one I could at least paint it up to look like it was a tin top. I've managed to find one US site with 2 of the PE014 bodies in stock, plus I have some distant relatives over in the states who might be able to help.

I have always found that RC vehicle batteries are disappointingly short lived. I rarely used to take my MLST2 out to the local RC club because the battery only lasts about 20 minutes and takes 5-6 hours to charge. Plus the saddle batteries like you have them also stop the sides of the body bending inwards.

Have you used the standard Losi MRC suspension on your chassis Luke? What's the travel like? Does it look like a realistic travel that a standard SJ could do or might the travel want limiting a bit.

fast chargers and Lipos Ed! That's all I'm gonna say! battery technology has improved loads in recent years!

ScottieJ wrote:fast chargers and Lipos Ed! That's all I'm gonna say! battery technology has improved loads in recent years!

What's involved in a LiPo conversion? I don't really know much about them. Don't fast chargers shorten the life of the battery?

Edweird wrote:

ScottieJ wrote:fast chargers and Lipos Ed! That's all I'm gonna say! battery technology has improved loads in recent years!

What's involved in a LiPo conversion? I don't really know much about them. Don't fast chargers shorten the life of the battery?

Don't upset LiPo's or they go Bang...

LiPo's have made Electric cars superior to Nitro RC cars, no faffing with the carb and letting it warm out and adjusting the mix, and changing glow plug.

Charge, plug in and go... Brushless technology makes them silly quick.

Don't let LiPo's overheat, drop them or run them too low or they can explode. (I'm sure they state these on standard battery packs anyway).

Edweird wrote:
What's involved in a LiPo conversion? I don't really know much about them. Don't fast chargers shorten the life of the battery?

Buying a lipo and lipo charger and a lipo sock to charge the battery in. yes they are volatile but it's very rare for them to actually explode.

I used the original shockers but had to modify them to make them stiffer & with less travel, to do this I slid some Ali tube over the top the body of the shock so the springs rest position was half compressed, I then used some rc fuel pipeon the shaft which limited how far it could compress to about1.5cm



This works well for me and limits my articulation which stops the wheels rubbing on my body.

As for lipo's I have them in my 1/10 off road car and they are brilliant, they last for ages and hardly fade at all (& you can get them in phenomenal capacities), if your having issues with running time id advise you to try some. For my rc SJ it was never really an issue so I've stuck with the nihm's