Problem is it diff or prop shaft
- twiss
- SCUK Computer Wizard
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Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
If you have no friction material left on the clutch then it will just spin to it's hearts content....
To be honest, I would just get a new clutch. The gearboxes on SJs are pretty much bulletproof anyway, and your symptoms sound just like a clutch.
They are about £60 and they are dead easy to fit
To be honest, I would just get a new clutch. The gearboxes on SJs are pretty much bulletproof anyway, and your symptoms sound just like a clutch.
They are about £60 and they are dead easy to fit
Twiss
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
- dan_2k_uk
- I spend far too much time on here
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Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
And once the gearbox is off you can try the clutch and gearbox individually. Im supprised there is no change in engine noise at all when putting the clutch in and out.
Was the bite especially high beforehand?
Does the clutch pedal still feel the same?
Was the bite especially high beforehand?
Does the clutch pedal still feel the same?

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Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Hi yes the clutch pedal was well high wat would that mean ? And the clutch pedal feels the same but just with out a bite
- twiss
- SCUK Computer Wizard
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Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Definitely sounds like your clutch then mate, gearbox is probably OK!
When the clutch bite is right at the top it usually means the clutch is shot.
You could try adjusting the clutch to see if it helps, but it probably wont.
The clutch is adjusted from a bracket on the engine, next to the engine mount, probably easiest to get to from underneath the zook.
Just adjust the nuts on the bracket to adjust the cable.
If the clutch feels the same, it probably means that the thrust bearing and the clutch cover fins are OK. The lack of bite is where there is no grip left on the clutch surface
It is definitely worth changing the whole clutch though (plate, cover and bearing) instead of being tight and just replacing the clutch plate
When the clutch bite is right at the top it usually means the clutch is shot.
You could try adjusting the clutch to see if it helps, but it probably wont.
The clutch is adjusted from a bracket on the engine, next to the engine mount, probably easiest to get to from underneath the zook.
Just adjust the nuts on the bracket to adjust the cable.
If the clutch feels the same, it probably means that the thrust bearing and the clutch cover fins are OK. The lack of bite is where there is no grip left on the clutch surface
It is definitely worth changing the whole clutch though (plate, cover and bearing) instead of being tight and just replacing the clutch plate
Twiss
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Ok will give it ok thanks for both of your helps i have just brought a haynes manual i hope its easier than it sounds in the book sounds like i have to take loads off
- twiss
- SCUK Computer Wizard
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- Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2010 2:28 pm
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Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Nahhh its dead easy mate.
> Remove battery -ve terminal
> undo wires from starter motor (1 thick wire bolted onto the starter, 1 thin wire usually with a spade connector on it, sometimes an earth cable as well....) remember where they all came from!
> undo the 2 bolts holding it on and remove the starter motor
> There is a small metal cover at the front of the gearbox at the bottom, remove the 2 bolts for it, then remove the cover
> Remove gearstick gaiter (4 bolts)
> Remove gearstick (3 or 4 bolts)
> Remove transfer box gaiter (4 screws)
> Through transfer hole, undo 4 nuts holding on propshaft
> Pull propshaft back out of gearbox and remove
> Undo clutch cable (1 nut right on the end of the clutch cable, easiest from underneath)
> Unplug reverse light switch (on top of gearbox, get to it through engine bay, passenger side)
> Remove bar that runs under the front of the gearbox
> Undo bolts holding gearbox to chassis crossmember (back of the gearbox, 6 bolts, 2 then 4, under the car)
> Undo bolts holding gearbox to engine (2 on top, 2 at the bottom)
> Slide gearbox back then tilt it forwards as it comes down
> Undo bolts holding on clutch
> Remove clutch and watch out of the remains of the clutch surface flying out and landing on your face
> Install new clutch, making sure its exactly in the middle (you can do it by eye, but most prefer using a clutch alignment tool
Just remember that if you tilt the gearbox backwards, all the oil will piss out of where the propshaft was!
If anyone sees I've missed anything, add it on!
> Remove battery -ve terminal
> undo wires from starter motor (1 thick wire bolted onto the starter, 1 thin wire usually with a spade connector on it, sometimes an earth cable as well....) remember where they all came from!
> undo the 2 bolts holding it on and remove the starter motor
> There is a small metal cover at the front of the gearbox at the bottom, remove the 2 bolts for it, then remove the cover
> Remove gearstick gaiter (4 bolts)
> Remove gearstick (3 or 4 bolts)
> Remove transfer box gaiter (4 screws)
> Through transfer hole, undo 4 nuts holding on propshaft
> Pull propshaft back out of gearbox and remove
> Undo clutch cable (1 nut right on the end of the clutch cable, easiest from underneath)
> Unplug reverse light switch (on top of gearbox, get to it through engine bay, passenger side)
> Remove bar that runs under the front of the gearbox
> Undo bolts holding gearbox to chassis crossmember (back of the gearbox, 6 bolts, 2 then 4, under the car)
> Undo bolts holding gearbox to engine (2 on top, 2 at the bottom)
> Slide gearbox back then tilt it forwards as it comes down
> Undo bolts holding on clutch
> Remove clutch and watch out of the remains of the clutch surface flying out and landing on your face
> Install new clutch, making sure its exactly in the middle (you can do it by eye, but most prefer using a clutch alignment tool
Just remember that if you tilt the gearbox backwards, all the oil will piss out of where the propshaft was!
If anyone sees I've missed anything, add it on!

Twiss
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
sounds to me its most likely the clutch, you're going to have to whip the gearbox out anyway if its the gearbox so pull it out and inspect 

Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Cant get bolt out of gearbox on the left side top any ideas its in there solid
- twiss
- SCUK Computer Wizard
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- Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2010 2:28 pm
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Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Get a big spanner on there with a metal pole over the end... more leverage!!!
I would expect its been on there since it came out of the factory!!!
You mean the top bolt on the drivers side?
I would expect its been on there since it came out of the factory!!!
You mean the top bolt on the drivers side?
Twiss
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
'93 Maruti Gypsy MG410
"If brute force doesn't fix your problem, you aren't using enough of it."
Re: Problem is it diff or prop shaft
Yes thats the one i will try your tip an see how i get on been trying for hours lol