You're right re the sums, but ignore the starter motor bit, as that is only a short load.
I fitted a pair of these
Click Here for Ebay Listing
Or very similar.
They are mental, and a very low power usage. They really do have to be seen to be believed.
Not really for road use though.
Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
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Ladaman
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
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Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
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NylonAdmiral
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Ladaman, thanks for that. I have no idea why I wrote starter motor, I meant to write alternator! 
I've corrected it now though.
Those lamps look pretty cool...
I've corrected it now though.Those lamps look pretty cool...
1.6 16v, Rock Lobster, PAS, Muddyzook rear disc conversion, coated in Raptor, 33in x 10.5, heated seats, lovingly restored by Scottie!
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Jordi
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Maybe i'll get my spots on this winter.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
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Ladaman
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Yeah go for a LED lightbar 
Check out this web site. The third video gives you an idea of the difference they make, and remember the video doesn't do them justice, but it gives you a comparison of the difference.
http://www.snakeracing.com.au/rigid-ind ... ights.html
If you want lights that are bright, LED is the way forward.
If you just want to look cool, get lots of big "normal" ones.
Mine don't look cool.
You can hardly see them, until I turn them on. 
Check out this web site. The third video gives you an idea of the difference they make, and remember the video doesn't do them justice, but it gives you a comparison of the difference.
http://www.snakeracing.com.au/rigid-ind ... ights.html
If you want lights that are bright, LED is the way forward.
If you just want to look cool, get lots of big "normal" ones.
Mine don't look cool.
You can hardly see them, until I turn them on. - Attachments
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- IMG00190-20120103-2135.jpg (585.56 KiB) Viewed 6053 times
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Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
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NylonAdmiral
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Thanks Ladaman, I actually want them to be as compact as possible. I don't care what they look like I just want them to be super bright!
1.6 16v, Rock Lobster, PAS, Muddyzook rear disc conversion, coated in Raptor, 33in x 10.5, heated seats, lovingly restored by Scottie!
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Jordi
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
And cheap to buy!
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
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NylonAdmiral
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Whoa, just been looking and those LED light bars are pretty expensive!
1.6 16v, Rock Lobster, PAS, Muddyzook rear disc conversion, coated in Raptor, 33in x 10.5, heated seats, lovingly restored by Scottie!
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Ladaman
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Eh! I'm the Yorkshireman.Jordi wrote:And cheap to buy!
I thought it was just us who are tight
Yep, just go for the Chinese eBay ones. There are good.NylonAdmiral wrote:Whoa, just been looking and those LED light bars are pretty expensive!
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Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
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Tramp
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Re: Spot Lamp Electrical Loads
Just buy whatever's cheapest, you can buy h3 replacement lamps with LEDs in if regular spotlight fittings are cheaper
For me my light bar has 7 lamps x4 with 55w lamps the other x3 with LEDs (limited through the cable size) I'm not worried about overloading the alternator as said before if it's drawing more than the alternator can produce it will draw from the battery too, I'm pretty sure mine does this, but for the amount of time the light bar is on it doesn't really matter!
As Darrel said your formula is simple, power (wattage) = voltage x current, ideally your total power usage should be below the wattage of your alternator but for short term uses the battery helps to keep things stable,
For me my light bar has 7 lamps x4 with 55w lamps the other x3 with LEDs (limited through the cable size) I'm not worried about overloading the alternator as said before if it's drawing more than the alternator can produce it will draw from the battery too, I'm pretty sure mine does this, but for the amount of time the light bar is on it doesn't really matter!
As Darrel said your formula is simple, power (wattage) = voltage x current, ideally your total power usage should be below the wattage of your alternator but for short term uses the battery helps to keep things stable,