So I've FINALLY got around to taking the sammy off the road, for its much needed revitalisation. But that got me thinking, if I'm going to be doing all that bodywork, then why not get on with that lift and stretch project ive been thinking about?
The plan is somewhere along these lines:
-38" x 14.5" tyres on beadlocked 15 x 9 wheels
-Custom build Dana 44 axles with ram assisted steering
-Stretch the axles apart so the wheelbase is somewhere about 95" (15" longer than the sammy wheelbase)
-Cut and modify the rear section of the chassis rails to accomodate 12" travel coilover shocks and long-arm triangulated suspension
-Chop the bodywork to accomodate lots of travel for the 38" tyres
-Custom roll cage
-4.3L Vortec V6 engine, mated to a 700R4 auto gearbox
-Not sure what transfer box yet, probably something like an np231 or np241 (from a anus wrangler)
-Custom driveshafts
-Nice paintjob
Having listed it, it doesnt seen like that much work!
Here's a before picture:
heres a couple of pictures of what I'd like my sammy to look similar to...
Unlike these pictures, im going to push the axles 3-4" forward and 10-11" backwards.
Here's a picture of a Dana 44 axle, something like what I'll be using
Wish me luck!
Sam
38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
- firemansam
- Got muddy boots
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:10 pm
- firemansam
- Got muddy boots
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:10 pm
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
I started the deconstruction, stripping the sammy of any bit that was bolted or lightly welded on...
Turns out that the wheelarches were held on by magic, because there's no material behind them!
Here's the inside of the wheelarch
Removed the back bumper and fuel tank
Took out the seats and such
Removed the dashboard to reveal suzuki spaghetti
Here's the inside with everything gone
So next on the list is to cut away all the rot and patch it up, and I'm going to cut away the most part of the floor, and weld in new.
Turns out that the wheelarches were held on by magic, because there's no material behind them!
Here's the inside of the wheelarch
Removed the back bumper and fuel tank
Took out the seats and such
Removed the dashboard to reveal suzuki spaghetti
Here's the inside with everything gone
So next on the list is to cut away all the rot and patch it up, and I'm going to cut away the most part of the floor, and weld in new.
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
good luck!
sounds like quite an ambitious build! hope it turn out well for you!
keep us posted, with plenty of pics!
Dan
sounds like quite an ambitious build! hope it turn out well for you!
keep us posted, with plenty of pics!
Dan
http://www.suzukiclubuk.co.uk the new home for your suzuki sj
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
sounds like a good plan mate, best o luck an aw that
- dan_2k_uk
- I spend far too much time on here
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- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
will keep my eye on this one!
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
This one looks like it could be good
Have you thought about what suspension set up you are going to use yet on the front (the front must be a set up that uses a panhard rod unless you go hydro steer.) and rear because there are a lot of options to chose from with regards to link set ups i.e radius arms,1-link, 3-link(with a-frame or pahhard rod) or 4-link. then you need to work out the geometry of the suspension to minimise rear steer, get the desired amount of antisquat and just make it drive well in general.
I've been looking at coiling mine some time next year so i've been doing a lot of reading up on suspension design recently. you've gotta remember though; the americans do know their stuff when it comes to suspension design but something set up for rock crawling might not actually work to well for the mud plugging we do here.
Have a look at these links
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... on+dummies
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
I hope you've got your thinking cap on
Scottie J
Have you thought about what suspension set up you are going to use yet on the front (the front must be a set up that uses a panhard rod unless you go hydro steer.) and rear because there are a lot of options to chose from with regards to link set ups i.e radius arms,1-link, 3-link(with a-frame or pahhard rod) or 4-link. then you need to work out the geometry of the suspension to minimise rear steer, get the desired amount of antisquat and just make it drive well in general.
I've been looking at coiling mine some time next year so i've been doing a lot of reading up on suspension design recently. you've gotta remember though; the americans do know their stuff when it comes to suspension design but something set up for rock crawling might not actually work to well for the mud plugging we do here.
Have a look at these links
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... on+dummies
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
I hope you've got your thinking cap on
Scottie J
- firemansam
- Got muddy boots
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:10 pm
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
indeed what works well on rock may not work well in the gloop, thats why im not going for massive articulation, and a reasonable road-driveability.
I have a piece of software that will allow me to work out suspension geometry, and get the right amount of antisquat. I will be using a 4-link triaangulated setup on the rear, and a panhard setup on the front. Im not sure about the legality of full-hydro steering though. If i knew it was legal for the road, then thats the steering id like, save me haing so many connections to the axles...
I have a piece of software that will allow me to work out suspension geometry, and get the right amount of antisquat. I will be using a 4-link triaangulated setup on the rear, and a panhard setup on the front. Im not sure about the legality of full-hydro steering though. If i knew it was legal for the road, then thats the steering id like, save me haing so many connections to the axles...
Re: 38" Tyres and coilovers - The build begins
ah the good ol' excel link calculators right? i've been playing with one of those to try and work out my set up, still unsure whether or not to go 3 link with a-frame or 4 link on the rear with mine yet though and whether to go radius arms or 3 link with panhard rod on the front? the only problem with 4 link is that they tend to have quite a high roll centre which i don't think will be that great fot UK off roading.