This might seem like a silly question but here goes
Do you need the engine running / Sj moving to change between 2wd / 4wd etc, or do you do this with the engine off / car stationary ?
Only asking as i tried changing between the 2wd / 4wd yesterday ( while car was stationary with engine off, then on ) and it seems very stiff compared to a normal gear change.
Are they meant to feel stiff, am i doing something wrong, or does it sound worse than that ?
Never owned a vehicle that i can switch between 2 and 4 before so it's a bit new to me.
Cheers, Daz
Transfer box question
- Tramp
- Suzuki, will you marry me?
- Posts: 2828
- Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:09 pm
- Location: Rotherham - South Yorkshire
Re: Transfer box question
you should be stationary with your foot on the clutch/neuteral on the main gear box, it is 'stiffer' than ordinary gearchange and is a little clunkyier, if going from 4wd to 2wd and its too stiff to move, roll the sj back abit as the transission will be binding on itself,
an important thing to remember is that, dont use 4x4 on the road, (becuase there is no center diff the front and rear axle need to rotate the same amount of times but when you go round a corner the back wheels always cut the corner which means they don't turn as fast as the front wheels and the drive has to take up the strain which means things can break when they get over stressed, off road its not a problem because the wheels 'slip' on the poor terrain and releive the stress) also dont put the t-box in neuteral when towing leave in 2wd and put the main gearbox in neuteral, as when in the neuteral position the front axle and rear axle are meshed but the drive input isnt, so essentially you can still get diff wind up,
Luke
an important thing to remember is that, dont use 4x4 on the road, (becuase there is no center diff the front and rear axle need to rotate the same amount of times but when you go round a corner the back wheels always cut the corner which means they don't turn as fast as the front wheels and the drive has to take up the strain which means things can break when they get over stressed, off road its not a problem because the wheels 'slip' on the poor terrain and releive the stress) also dont put the t-box in neuteral when towing leave in 2wd and put the main gearbox in neuteral, as when in the neuteral position the front axle and rear axle are meshed but the drive input isnt, so essentially you can still get diff wind up,
Luke
Re: Transfer box question
Cheers Tramp, thanks for the info
- dan_2k_uk
- I spend far too much time on here
- Posts: 4924
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
Re: Transfer box question
having the handbrake off normally helps with mine. I normally change it without stopping if im going under about 5mph. Never had any problems.
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
Re: Transfer box question
As Tramp says, it's just a case of getting the teeth to mesh so a little going back and forth can sometimes be needed as there's no syncromesh. It's no big deal. It helps I find if you drive the vehicle and leave it in gear on the gearbox, then dip the clutch and do it straight away, maybe even if the vehicle has just not quite stopped rolling as the transfer box gears are still spinning ever to slightly with the props to help the gears mesh. they might crunch ever so slightly but if you are gentle and sympathetic to it it'll be fine. Otherwise if you have stopped and lift the clutch and then dip it and try putting it into 4WD, just roll forward a foot by bringing the clutch up in first then dip the clutch and try it.
This is perfectly normal.
Kirkynut
This is perfectly normal.
Kirkynut