adding an ammeter

[Darrell]

Ever thought about starting a business? Darrell's diagrams?

http://www.offroadingpics.co.uk/apps/photos/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[twiss]

haha the collection has begin
(sorry for the hijack smalljeep)

[Darrell]

That ammeter diagram I just nicked of the net and modified it a little.

After the fuse link is a connection just use that.
You could move the lights supply but I don't think it's worth it.
Just means you only get a accurate ampage reading when the lights are off.
Me - I wouldn't bother with the extra fuse as thats what the fuselink is for but it would add extra protection.

Have fun and don't blow anything up

[Smalljeep]

ok thanks, ive ordered the wire and fuse holder so ill attempt this when it comes, but id like to relocate the light wires to a proper place for a better reading on the amps where is the place to plug them onto?
as for the water/oil temp gague should i start a new thread about it.

[Tramp]

just make sure its on the other side of the ammeter to the battery (or where it says 'fusebox supply' on darrells diagram) that way the current passes through the ammeter and you can see what is being drawn, Personally I'm not a fan of ammeters, It just seems a real effort to run the main battery cable to the ammeter, a voltmeter is so much easier as you only have to run two small gauge cables!

[Smalljeep]

i added the ammeter onto the fueseable link.
i got some oven cable for the wiring:

thats thicker than the fusable link.
and i made an inline 40amp fuse holder out of bits of out of an old 406:

the bulkhead i pumped the hole full of silicone to prevent the wire getting chafed:

these are the connectors:


and the tool used for crimping:

and all the connections were well insulated:


so the ammeter works, the fact theres such a big scale is a problem it doesnt move a lot but just enough to show its charging ok.
but i want to run the lights off something better than direct to the battery where is the place to do that? i tried the wire for the heater motor but it quickly felt hot with the lights and the electric fan running.

[Ginger_boy]

i got some oven cable for the wiring:

That should be right for the size of cable 6mm sq (for info the cable size is calculated from the cross sectional area of each single copper core x the ammount of cores).

when you say your head lights are wired direct to the battery do you still have side/headlight on , dim and dip from the control stalk or has this been done away with?

If you still have all that the problem is with the live supply to the control stalk or the control stork its self

I have found the wiring diagram for the Sammi it might help

[Darrell]

Sorry guys, the "goalposts" keep moving so I've had enough

Please don't take this personally Smalljeep but with electrics it has to be right.
The fuselink is rated to run all the vehicles standard wiring, any extra loading (IE spotlights) is normally connected direct to the battery as yours are now. If you moved them like the last diagram the chances are that the combined load of all the lights / wipers / heater will blow the fuselink or fuse, so best left alone.

Your ammeter will still give the correct reading apart from when the spotlights are on
Don't get me wrong It could be wired how you wanted, but would need larger wire/fuse and fuselink removing (never worth it)

Sorry - Darrell

[Smalljeep]

hi sorry ive been talking about the headlights wrong, they still work as normal (bar the indicators which are smashed and only one exhists)
i have spotlights i added onto the anus, wired direct to the battery, although through a switch and inline fuse, but they still get their power off the battery:

(not as many lights as i had on this when the bumper was on it, there was an extra 2 spotlights on top of the bumper but they broke)
What i want to do is to wire these lights to a better power supply, relays to the headlights have the problem that the headlights must be on first sometimes i prefer to have these on.
but that is a fantastic diagram, i need to find the wire then between the fuse board and the altenator, are you saying i can tap off the -ve side of the ammeter wire?

[Ginger_boy]

Ah Spotlights now it all becomes clearer.

Depending on what wattage your spotlights are you can probably get away with running a supply from battery throught a fuse to a switch then two the lights 55w Spots will only Produce 8 ish amps so the switch you use should be 10 amps and will be ok. If how ever if youare running 100amp lamps then you would be looking at about 16amps the best way is to switch your lights through relays.

Have a look at the diagram on the DIY pages for "fitting additional driving light" look take this diagram "Only if the ignition is switched on."

terminal 30 on the relay would come from either out going side of your ammeter or where you joined back into the cars wiring.

As you don't have the clock anymore in the car there must then be a permenant live free, the wire should be be white. take that through the switch then onto terminal 86 of the relay that means your lights will be on even if the ignitions off. Or if you want them only when the ignition is on use the cigertte lighter/radio supply should be white with a black strip.
If your SJ is a soft top then you won't have a rear heater, there should be a igniton suppied 12 volts spare, the wire is colour Yellow with a green stripe and the end should be somewhere under the drivers side part of the dash you could use that also as a 12v supply to the swtich for the relay