Engine not running right? see if we can help you!
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border
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by border » Wed Feb 10, 2021 6:48 pm
Well here we go again
![hmm :hmm:](./images/smilies/hmm.gif)
, solve one problem then Immediately find another.
Whats going on here ? how can I fix it ?
https://youtu.be/otcDlgXHZhY
Thanks Everyone for help on other problems so far.
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Jordi
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by Jordi » Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:03 pm
Make sure its bolted on properly and that the bearing isn’t shot.
Can’t tell if thats a knackered bearing noise or just the noise of it rattling about.
Never seen a that bearing wobble so much though.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
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by border » Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:06 pm
Thanks Mate does sound like its the noise of it rattling on the side. Its running ok, but suppose it can only get worse.
Stupid question, but will I have to take the Rad off to get to the bolts ?
It actually sounds a lot louder on the Vid then when your there listening to it.
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Jordi
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by Jordi » Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:49 pm
You can get to the bolts with the rad still in to check if they are tight.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
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border
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by border » Wed Feb 10, 2021 11:23 pm
Jordi wrote: ↑Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:49 pm
You can get to the bolts with the rad still in to check if they are tight.
Cheers Mate, Gonna have a good look tomorrow, just hoping its not new water pump time.
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ScottieJ
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by ScottieJ » Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:37 pm
I would say that's new water pump time, I would also do the cambelt and tensioner while it's apart and inspect the front cam/crank seals for signs of leaks.
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border
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by border » Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:48 pm
ScottieJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:37 pm
I would say that's new water pump time, I would also do the cambelt and tensioner while it's apart and inspect the front cam/crank seals for signs of leaks.
Cheers Mate, Gonna order pump and Timing belt kit. might get a price from local 4x4 garage to fit them, dont really want to mess with the timing myself.
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ScottieJ
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by ScottieJ » Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:55 pm
border wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:48 pm
ScottieJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:37 pm
I would say that's new water pump time, I would also do the cambelt and tensioner while it's apart and inspect the front cam/crank seals for signs of leaks.
Cheers Mate, Gonna order pump and Timing belt kit. might get a price from local 4x4 garage to fit them, dont really want to mess with the timing myself.
It's a pretty easy job tbh, just rotate it around to TDC when its all apart (before removing the belt) and make sure nothing moves while swapping the belts. These are non interference engines so the worst that can happen if you mess up is that it just wont run
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
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border
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by border » Fri Feb 12, 2021 10:54 am
ScottieJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:55 pm
border wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:48 pm
ScottieJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:37 pm
I would say that's new water pump time, I would also do the cambelt and tensioner while it's apart and inspect the front cam/crank seals for signs of leaks.
Cheers Mate, Gonna order pump and Timing belt kit. might get a price from local 4x4 garage to fit them, dont really want to mess with the timing myself.
It's a pretty easy job tbh, just rotate it around to TDC when its all apart (before removing the belt) and make sure nothing moves while swapping the belts. These are non interference engines so the worst that can happen if you mess up is that it just wont run
Might have a go If I get stuck half way through which I probably will, Ill be back here asking how to T D C it
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
. Will have to find a Yotube on it somewhere.