New problem, new thread.
New problem, new thread.
Thought it best to start a new thread as the original problem I had with the manifold is now sorted.
New problem is, I cannot get the revs to drop below 1200 at tickover even when the engine is up to temperature. The rev counter needle jumps between 1200 and 1500. Checked hoses for leaks as Twiss sugested but can find none. Backed tickover screw right out so it no longer touches the lever it's meant to control. There are various vacuum hoses attached the the manifold, have connected these to each other as they were on the old manifold. The only vacuum hose attached to the carb is the one which goes to the distibrutor. When I remove this hose with the engine running nothing happens, is this right? Or should the engine stall with this hose removed? It's a Weber carb by the way. Could the problem be something to do with this vacuum hose? It's doing my bloody head in!
New problem is, I cannot get the revs to drop below 1200 at tickover even when the engine is up to temperature. The rev counter needle jumps between 1200 and 1500. Checked hoses for leaks as Twiss sugested but can find none. Backed tickover screw right out so it no longer touches the lever it's meant to control. There are various vacuum hoses attached the the manifold, have connected these to each other as they were on the old manifold. The only vacuum hose attached to the carb is the one which goes to the distibrutor. When I remove this hose with the engine running nothing happens, is this right? Or should the engine stall with this hose removed? It's a Weber carb by the way. Could the problem be something to do with this vacuum hose? It's doing my bloody head in!
- donkeychomp
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Re: New problem, new thread.
When did all this start? Was the car running ok before you fitted the Weber?
If it ticks over...leave it
Re: New problem, new thread.
I fitted the Weber as soon as I got the car, didn't run it with the old carb. It's always ticked over a bit on the high side but seems to be worse since I fitted the new manifold and more eratic, revs jump around a bit. It drives fine on the road it's just when I come to a junction or pull over that the problem shows.
- donkeychomp
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Re: New problem, new thread.
Has the new manifold got a hairline crack in it somewhere? Has the Weber been cleaned and rebuilt? Right jets in it? Could be a ton of reasons but I'd check those first.
If it ticks over...leave it
Re: New problem, new thread.
Thanks for the reply. Spent ages cleaning the manifold with a wire brush before fitting it, pretty sure there's no cracks in it. Also fitted new gasket so don't think it's pulling any air in. The carb came off the KJA I bought off Jordi a while back so don't know if it's ever been serviced or cleaned. Next step is to order a carb service kit. Need to identify which carb it is first. It has a manual choke. Do you know if there where different Weber carb options for the Samurai or was there only one.
- ROBBIE
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Re: New problem, new thread.
I cant remember if its the right carb but in red circled area is a diaphragm, which if split will cause the revs to rise and fall.
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Sid James gone but never forgotten
Jimny 1.6 not as good as an SJ but still good
Jimny 1.6 not as good as an SJ but still good
Re: New problem, new thread.
Thanks for the suggestion Robbie, just took diaphragm out to check it and it looks OK.
Got some details from base of carb,32DGR and 173 9.
Do these give a clue as to which carb it is?
Loads of service kits on EBay but nothing that matches these details.
Got some details from base of carb,32DGR and 173 9.
Do these give a clue as to which carb it is?
Loads of service kits on EBay but nothing that matches these details.
- Tramp
- Suzuki, will you marry me?
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Re: New problem, new thread.
Tbh the Webber 32/36 dgv looks to be nearly the same as the Webber 32 dgr, have you checked the weber thread? For a rebuild kit have you tried webcon.co.uk?......... http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopdisplayprod ... =Weber+DGR
If you need to check anything it's worth ringing them as they are really good and know what parts are compatible with what,
The only thing I can suggest with your problem is to check all the extra tapping points off your manifold that the old Asin carb used and make sure they are blanked, there are x3 on the manifold, x2 are blanked and one goes to the distributor for the vacuum advance,
If you need to check anything it's worth ringing them as they are really good and know what parts are compatible with what,
The only thing I can suggest with your problem is to check all the extra tapping points off your manifold that the old Asin carb used and make sure they are blanked, there are x3 on the manifold, x2 are blanked and one goes to the distributor for the vacuum advance,
Re: New problem, new thread.
Thanks for that Tramp, will ring webcon on Monday and see if they have any suggestions. Pretty sure I have everything blanked off on the manifold which isn't needed but will double check tomorrow.
Re: New problem, new thread.
You should ensure that you don't have a leak at the carb mounting flange, they can warp if over-tightened. If it has then use a sheet of wet and dry on a glass plate to flatten it.
2006 Jimny JLX+ 1.3 VVT
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz