Project back in black.

robbie1985 · Post by **robbie1985** » Fri May 22, 2015 6:55 pm

Cheers Tom. Luckily not Twiss, I change the n/s wheel cylinder as it was leaking and wanted to bleed all the old fluid out and when I went to bleed the front calipers I noticed the nipples were well rounded off. They should come out with some molebgrips but don't wanna have a go until I have replacements.
Will a split charger and second battery be enough to run a few spots and maybe a winch in the future?

donkeychomp · Post by **donkeychomp** » Fri May 22, 2015 8:21 pm

Split charger is fine but you could probably get away with one battery...might want a bigger alternator, depends on the size of the winch and how often it gets used I guess.

robbie1985 · Post by **robbie1985** » Fri May 22, 2015 10:28 pm

Hey donkey chomp, in that case I might fit the extra lights and see how the battery goes. As for the winch I hope it won't get used too much, more a just in case then me purposely getting stuck just to winch myself out.

donkeychomp · Post by **donkeychomp** » Fri May 22, 2015 10:48 pm

well a lot of us have extra lights...I have 8 and a winch and just one battery

robbie1985 · Post by **robbie1985** » Sun May 24, 2015 4:56 pm

Theravada good point. I think I'm gonna wire in the spots and see how the battery holds up.
I am gonna make a start on the rear bumper next week. I'm gonna do the rear one first as a practice one as I think it should be the easier of the 2 to make. Gonna keep it simple and make the mounts seperate from the bumper and have the 2 bolt together I'll get some pictures up soon

robbie1985 · Post by **robbie1985** » Sat Sep 05, 2015 8:55 am

well its been a while since my last post, and some things have been done.

i changed the front oil seal and changed the timing belt at the same time, now it only leaks from the rear of the engine which is at least a 50% improvement, i've changed the rocker cover gasket. turns out the old one had split and had been repaired with the careful application of some silicon sealant.
the rear brakes are sporting new cylinders and shoes at the back and the fronts have new bleed nipples. does anyone know where i can get replacement backing plates for from brakes? one of mine is rotted away and the other is missing completely.
i've not made the rear bumper yet, got as far as making the templates but need to get the shett steel sorted through work.
i've also had to replace the diff drop bracket on the rear diffas the old one was only bolted on with 2 bolts on one side. every time its gone round a corner its bent the flange over and over again until it snapped. luckily i was pulling into my road when it did give up the ghost and got the car home, driving sideways with and entire wheel sticking out of one side.
also half way through a pickup conversion. the door is welded in place but i wanna put some more welds in for strength and then fiber glass it shut. possibly on sunday if the weather is good.
once that is done i'm gonna clean up the back end and rust treat and paint it and do the same in the bed and spray it with stone chip.

also a quick question, i have a strong vibration coming from the car when im doing around 30! i think its coming from the rear as i can't feel it through the steering. any ideas?

i've included some pics of my first time out in it, it was at boxgrove pit, shame its closed now, enjoy

cheers for looking

turbo-tom · Post by **turbo-tom** » Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:13 pm

Looks good i went to boxgrove pit shame as i thought id cover most of it but its a fairly big site.

robbie1985 · Post by **robbie1985** » Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:19 pm

I believe that they are going to run slindon safari on the weekends that box grove was meant to be on. And chatting to the guys that Marshall the last time I was down there, the guy that owns the land is looking for another site for it.

twiss · Post by **twiss** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 1:01 pm

I managed to go to Boxgrove a couple of times before I moved to Malta... it was a good site and the mud there is slightly less abrasive than the sandmud at Slindon.
That stuff will destroy anything with moving parts... brakes, clutches, alternators, starters, bearings, oil seals!!!
If you are going to go there regularly I would strongly advise that you thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly) wash all the brakes out (including INSIDE the drums), wash the clutch out with a hose every time get home.... and periodically remove the alternator and starter and clean them out

As for the vibrations, I would be checking out the rear and mid prop UJs first.
Best if you remove the props completely to check the UJs as being attached can prevent you from feeling exactly where the play is coming from

robbie1985 · Post by **robbie1985** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:02 pm

hey fellas, its been a while.

cheers for the advice twiss, i have managed to narrow it down to the passenger side front hub. the half shaft has a load of play in it as in enters the rear of the hub. i managed to stop the vibration by taken off the manual locking hubs which have seized anyway. hopefully at the end of january i will be able to stop using the car as my daily so can pull all the front end apart and get it all sorted in one go. i need to strip the front brakes and replace the brake lines, pads and discs and service the calipers, does anyone no of a good place to get a rebuild kit for the calipers?

i have also fiber glassed the door in place so it all water tight. i used a putty plastic called uw43 that i "borrowed from work to seal most of the bottom metal part of the door up and then fiber glassed over it all. i duck taped all the gaps around the glass and filled the cavities up with expanding foam, once this had dried i sanded it down and the fiber glassed over this, i just need to sand and fiber glass the inside of the cab.

I've also started to work my way through the rusty bits and start to smarten the car up.