Anyone near Bristol that can help?

[ScottieJ]

I've got all the bits you will need to repair the front axle. Where is the Sj?

Scott

[Beardy89]

HI Scottie,

It is in Bath, I am in Bristol.

I think I have sorted a trailer, and trying to arrange collection on Saturday.

Once I get it home I have the space, tools and knowledge to fix it just need that parts, so may get in touch once I know what is needed if that is ok?

Thankyou for the offer!

[ScottieJ]

HI Scottie,

It is in Bath, I am in Bristol.

I think I have sorted a trailer, and trying to arrange collection on Saturday.

Once I get it home I have the space, tools and knowledge to fix it just need that parts, so may get in touch once I know what is needed if that is ok?

Thankyou for the offer!

Thats fine bud.

I have all sorts of parts spare.

Just give it a very thorough looking over on the body for rust, behind seats, under sills, around all body mounts and arches, around the fuel filler pipe where it goes through the boot floor etc.

I notice that its got spoa, if you want to keep it spoa then check all the angles, the spoa perches shold be welded on 100% parallel to the original spua perches, if they are not then your drive line and caster angles are going to be out and it won't drive very nicely.

[dan_2k_uk]

Don't go off Twiss' spanner sizing though.

You need a 12mm 14mm and 19mm.

Possibly a 10mm if it has FWH.

Circlip pliers for the end of the shaft.

[ScottieJ]

to make it easier to change i would see if anyone has the entire hub assembly with the shaft included
then you can replace the whole thing with 12mm, 13mm, 15mm spanners and some pliers

As dan says? don't use 13 or 15mm bolts as standard?

[Rhinoman]

to make it easier to change i would see if anyone has the entire hub assembly with the shaft included
then you can replace the whole thing with 12mm, 13mm, 15mm spanners and some pliers

As dan says? don't use 13 or 15mm bolts as standard?

Thats why you need the pliers

[Beardy89]

HI Scottie,

It is in Bath, I am in Bristol.

I think I have sorted a trailer, and trying to arrange collection on Saturday.

Once I get it home I have the space, tools and knowledge to fix it just need that parts, so may get in touch once I know what is needed if that is ok?

Thankyou for the offer!

Thats fine bud.

I have all sorts of parts spare.

Just give it a very thorough looking over on the body for rust, behind seats, under sills, around all body mounts and arches, around the fuel filler pipe where it goes through the boot floor etc.

I notice that its got spoa, if you want to keep it spoa then check all the angles, the spoa perches shold be welded on 100% parallel to the original spua perches, if they are not then your drive line and caster angles are going to be out and it won't drive very nicely.

Scottie, again thanks for the spot on advice cant fault the support and advice from the Forum!!
It has SPOA apparently it uses a "bolt on" kit, either way bolt on or welded I was intending to put it back to standard and lift it in a better way.

Probably YJ conversion and a Virtual Lift.

I will definitely be in touch once I get it home.

[Beardy89]

Hi Guys,

going to look at the SJ tomorrow night. I am aware now of the rust areas to focus on.
where are the Chassis numbers located? so I can check these against the V5?

Cheers Sam

[ScottieJ]

Hi Guys,

going to look at the SJ tomorrow night. I am aware now of the rust areas to focus on.
where are the Chassis numbers located? so I can check these against the V5?

Cheers Sam

At the front of the driver side chassis rail, between the bump stop mount and the steering box bolts.

Also check that the VIN plate near the speaker in the driver side foot well matches as well (sometimes the VIN plate is under the bonnet)

[Beardy89]

Cheers Scottie.

Have spoken to the guy selling it who has done a bit more investigation and it appears it is just the wheel bearings.

Is there anywhere in Bristol or close I can get some bearings so I can fit them there and then and drive it home.